Entries By garrett stevens

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Weathered and Waiting

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens | May 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

May 29, 2014 - 5:55 pm PT

Winter’s grip on North America’s tallest mountain stays strong, while climbers surround the flight office in anticipation of what lies ahead. A sudden roar, cough, cough, an engine turns over. A lone pilot off to scout the weather towards Basecamp takes off from the Talkeetna air field. With him he carries the hopes of the climbers on either end. So far, no one has made it in or out, and we stand by, sending good wishes and warm thoughts to our friends currently sitting on the mountain.

Here in Talkeetna we are lucky to have a meal in arm’s reach, to enjoy one another’s company, share stories, learn new skills and refine the existing ones. A team bonds, creating an experience that each of us will remember for a lifetime. But for now we wait, hope, and learn. For this is just another day of one intrepid group in Alaska.

All the best for now.

RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett and Bryan

Welcome to Talkeetna! Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Tyler Jones & Team Getting Ready in Talkeenta

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens | May 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

May 29, 2014 - 12:06 am PT

Greetings from beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska! The entire team finally arrived today, after one of our team members experienced a slight delay coming up yesterday. We had a great day here, spending most of the morning talking about the personal climbing kits, the gear we’ll need and the food we’ll eat, and what to expect in the days to come as we prepare for our grand adventure in the heart of the Alaska range.

We met with the park service this afternoon, and then headed back to the hangar to finalize packing. Our team is dialed and as a result we had no troubles as we culled out the superfluous gear from what we brought. Everything’s looking tight and right, and we’re all excited to get underway. While the forecast doesn’t look incredibly promising, we’ll be ready to launch at a moment’s notice tomorrow, and we hope to be on the glacier soon. We’re standing by, filled with anticipation for the expedition and respect for the task ahead.  Stay tuned for more details, and keep the positive vibes coming!

Until next time,

RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, and Bryan

A busy day at the Talkeetna Airport.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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6

Mt. Rainier: Teams Forced to Turn Due to Weather

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | May 25, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Billy Nugent and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Garrett Stevens were forced to call 13,000’ their high point today.  The teams reported high winds, low visibility, and a descending cloud cap.  The teams will rest for a short time at Camp Muir before beginning their descent to Paradise.  We expect to see them back in Ashford early this afternoon.

An RMI Climber on Mt. Rainier in low visibility. Photo: Ed Viesturs

DHAULAGIRI: Team Returns to Base Camp and Wraps Up Expediton

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | May 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Hello Everybody,

This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team we are calling here from Base Camp.  We have to let you know that unfortunately there was no summit for us.  As we have said in recent blogs the weather has been pretty bad for us.  We have had a lot of snow and we had to turn around at the very last day.  We have a few member of the team at Camp 3 and had a decent chance at a summit push, but conditions were no good.

We are currently at Base Camp and will start to hike down tomorrow, and we should be back in Kathmandu in four or five days and we will try to write down details to wrap up our expedition.  We have worked very hard and have been the first the first team on the mountain and the one that got the highest.  It will be neat to see everybody follow in our steps all the time going up and down the mountain.  Like I said, we had a ton of snow breaking trail was very difficult and we made it as high as we could.  Other than that everybody is doing pretty well, and we are very satisfied with our work.  Again, we were a team going unsupported and did everything on our own. Getting to where we got with day in and out snowstorms dumping up to three to four feet of snow, the work wasn’t easy.  We are pretty proud of what we have done.

We want to thank everybody for their support given to us, and we hope everything is going well back home.  We will touch base from Kathmandu in a few days.

Thanks Everybody! Talk to you all soon!

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos


Dhaulagiri Team Checking In.

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Dhaulagiri: Team Checks in Before Summit Push

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | April 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

The Dhaulagiri team called the RMI Office this morning to check-in.  Here is a summary of our conversation:

First and foremost, everyone is healthy and in good spirits.  The weather forecast is calling for more of the same—gorgeous, clear mornings followed by afternoon snowstorms.  They are refusing to let the plethora of new snow dampen their spirits.  A new team has arrived at base camp and everyone is enjoying the new company.  The team is getting ready to head to bed for the night.  In the morning they will begin heading uphill to get into position for their summit attempt. 

The team sends their love to everyone following along!  They will keep us posted on their upward progress.

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DHAULAGIRI: Team Has Established Camp 2

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | April 28, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Hello,

This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team and once again we wanted to apologize for the lack for the lack of communication, but as we said before we have been having a few problems with the satellite “sat” phone.  But, right now we can send a dispatch.

We have been discovering the worst weather that we have ever witnessed. This Himalayan peak is pretty much keeping us working really, really hard. We are getting snow storms every day. The only time we have not had afternoon storms have been when we have all day storms!  But, that hasn’t kept us from climbing.  The last two days we have been working very hard being the only team on the mountain breaking trail to establish Camp 2. In the next few days we are going to be looking at the route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 which is one of the hardest parts of the climb. If that is a go we’ll have a summit bid.

Like I said, we have been receiving anywhere from a foot to two feet of snow every other afternoon and it has made our job hard. A couple of other teams have arrived, but they are not as ambitious to work up high yet.  We are not going to quit until our plane leaves. We have a little bit less than 10 days here to make it happen. We have a really good weather forecast and will keep our fingers crossed that we are going to have a shot at it.

So if the sat phone keeps working for us we will keep you posted as much as we can. So please keep your fingers crossed for us.  This is Dhaulagiri and we hope you all take care. We hope to communicate good news soon!

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos


Dhaulagiri Team checking in April 28th.

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Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we’re having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest.  We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we’ll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We’ll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

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1

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We’ll keep you posted on the move. So far the “mountain of storms.” We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

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Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain.  We’ve moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We’ll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We’ll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.

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Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now.  We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

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