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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Continue to Wait for Break in Weather

Saturday, June 3, 2023 - 9:14 pm PT

It's us again,

We woke to snow and it hasn't stopped since. Needless to say no planes came to pick us up. Morale is holding but we are getting a bit antsy as a team. There has been lots of laying down. Backs are sore, legs restless, minds are going stir crazy. It's only been a couple days but our exit is so close. Tomorrow may be better for weather, so fingers crossed its clear in Talkeetna and clear here so we can hop on that plane and get some much needed showers.

Till than we lay once again in our sleeping bags listening to the pitter patter of the snow.

Holding strong,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey Bethany. Know you are ready to roll… maybe call an Uber!  Mom is good for it!  I will venmo the money.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/4/2023 at 12:26 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion Still at Basecamp Waiting to Fly

June 3, 2023 10:48 am PDT

We woke up to snow,

Was hoping to be in town,

More freeze dried it is.

June 2, 2023 10:01 pm PDT

The planes come and go,

but we are still here waiting,

tomorrow we fly?

 

RMI Guides Nikki, Leif, Lauren & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jonathan! Another chapter written, capturing a timeless beauty of nature filled with adventure. Looking forward to seeing your photos and hearing your stories! Safe travels home, we love you! Mom & Christina

Posted by: Joy Deffenbaugh on 6/4/2023 at 4:50 pm

Matt, what a spectacular adventure!  Peaks and valleys, something you have always been able to navigate.  Love you!

Posted by: Kathleen George on 6/4/2023 at 5:51 am


Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Waiting to Fly

Hello readers,

We woke with hopes of people flying. It snowed over a foot during the night. A light fluffy snow, good for skiing. The clouds lingered and the sun tried to poke out here and there. The once fluffy snow soon turned into nice sticky snow for snowman making. In order for Plane to leave or arrive the runway needed to be stomped down so the planes didn't get stuck. All of basecamp came together on skis and snowshoes to consolidate the snow for the planes to land safely. By late afternoon, the plane that slept overnight revved up its engine and flew away. Five K2 Aviation planes made their landing and two RMI teams made it off. Before four of those planes could U-turn back the clouds rolled back in, and we were told they would try again tomorrow.

Snow began to lightly come down as we got back in our tents and ready for another night. Fingers crossed Saturday clears up and we too can fly off This mountain.

Still at Basecamp,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bags - we miss you and can’t wait to see you! Much love, Enzo and Liv

Posted by: Olivia on 6/4/2023 at 7:28 am

We love you Shihan (Eva)! We have enjoyed being on the journey with you and your team. Cheers to snowman making and the beauty of the journey and the views around you. Excited to see you home safe soon. Much love to all from The Fox Family

Posted by: The Fox Family on 6/4/2023 at 7:03 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Waiting to Fly

June 2, 2023, 11:39 am PDT

Yesterday we woke up to clear skies, but the clouds and snow quickly made their way in. A few planes snuck in, but we were unable to make our way back to Talkeetna. So we sit, and continue to wait for our weather window to get off the Kahiltna Glacier and return to Talkeetna, beds, and showers. Until then we keep eating our snacks and watching movies.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and team

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Eagerly Await Blue Skies to Fly

June 1, 2023, 10:30 pm PDT

MOUNTAIN DAY 22 -

We had hopes this morning as the base camp manager said to ready everything and that planes were on the way. By 8:30 several planes hit the runway and stayed to load climbers. They departed and as the clouds edged closer, we were told they were launching planes for us and they were trying to get in. But the snow started and visibility shut down and the planes stopped landing. We kept waiting for the snow to stop and a hole to open, but it didn't come. It is now calm, but snowing prolifically. Midwinter, we would be going to sleep excited about the powder day to come. Here, we beg for it to stop so we can make our way home. But we are in a beautiful place, and we count ourselves warm, dry, and lucky to experience the power of the Alaska Range. 

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and team

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Crossing Fingers to Fly

June 1, 2023, 9:14 pm PDT

Hello all!

After a a quick nap of a couple hours we woke at 10:00 pm and packed up our camp. Just before midnight we began our walk out. During our nap the clouds faded away and gave us a beautiful view out. The air was crisp and so were the views. The moon light the dusk sky and hues of pink and purple faded in and out. We were the only team walking on the Kahiltna. As we took our final steps uphill on Heartbreak Hill we were greeted by a sea of tents at basecamp. Many hopefuls waited to check in and try to fly out. We had a couple hours before check in so we grabbed our sleeping bags and took another quick nap. As teams awoke you could feel the anxious and desperate energy of teams wanting to get off the glacier. Unfortunately, none of the RMI teams were able to fly. One plane even got stuck here at basecamp unable to fly out with the clouds engulfing camp so quickly. Our once clear morning turned into a wet afternoon. We are now curled up in our tents trying our best to stay dry and optimistic as we wait for weather to improve to we can off. A celebratory beer cached at basecamp has helped the mood. If we close our eyes we can pretend we are showered and sitting at the brewery. Weather is suppose to improve by Saturday so fingers crossed for clear skies both here and in Talkeetna. As for now, after only some naps we are pretty sleepy from our walk out. 

So goodnight all,
RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, and Erika Birkeland, and Team

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team at Basecamp Waiting to Fly

June 1, 2023, 5:13 pm PDT

After a successful summit day we descended from high camp to 14k Camp for the night. After a hearty burrito breakfast we descended to base camp, a 10-hour trek. We had excellent weather and perfect snow conditions for our lengthy descent. Unfortunately, snow returned in the morning and we were unable to fly off the glacier. K2 Aviation has pilots and planes on standby to come pick us up when the weather breaks. Who knows when that will be, but until then our climbers are dreaming of hot showers, cold beers, real food, and flush toilets. Nothing is easy about climbing Denali, and this final hurdle is testing our climbers'mettle. Hopefully we'll see the skies soon and the dreams will come to fruition. Fingers crossed. 

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excellent everyone! Hang in there!!

Posted by: Jamie on 6/3/2023 at 11:51 am

I’m so proud of you Scott! I can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Debbie Eldridge on 6/3/2023 at 4:13 am


Denal Expedition: Weather Turns Champion and Team

Short and sweet dispatch for now. We didn't get the summit window weather we were hoping for, so we packed up and headed down to basecamp. Now we are sitting in the snow, seeing if we can fly.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Return to Airstrip Ready for Return Flight

Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here! 

Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

So relieved you are on the final leg.  Congratulations, Brian and team!

Posted by: Lettie Kirk Goltry on 6/1/2023 at 11:13 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm

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