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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita & Teams Summit!

The summit climb teams, led by Brent Okita and JJ Justman, tagged the top of Mt. Rainier at 7:35am this morning. They reported winds about 25 mph, a bit chilly, and a cloud cap forming. Both teams began their descent at 8:20 a.m. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Mark, Soleil, & Cabrina!!  I’m so excited for you and can’t wait to hear all about it.
Love,
Janine

Posted by: Janine on 6/17/2016 at 9:20 am

Jeremy,

I don’t know you but everyone seems pretty pumped for you. Nice work, bud!

Posted by: Hayden on 6/17/2016 at 8:59 am


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Reaches the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 8:27 pm PT Hey this is Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately and the Upper West Rib Team we are standing on the summit of Denali, right now! We just had an excellent climb of the Upper West Rib. It's about 7 pm and we are going to tag the top and turn around and head home. Beautiful day here, just a few puffy clouds way off in the distance but other than that, clear as can be. Thanks for following along. We will check in again when we are back at camp. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens


RMI Guide Geoff Schellens calls from the summit of Denali with the Upper West Rib Team.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Captain Jim, Ry, Julia and I had dinner last night.  We’re all so proud and happy about your big big accomplishment.  Can’t wait to hear your story and see some more pictures.

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/17/2016 at 4:59 pm

CONGRATS! So awesome!

Can’t wait to see the pics.

Chris

Posted by: Underwood on 6/17/2016 at 4:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Call from the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 6:07 PM PT Hello from the top of Denali. We were lucky today and the mountain let us to the tip top. We are all doing fantastically well, the weather is just about perfect and we will soon start our descent. But we just wanted to check in, we will enjoy the views for a little bit longer, but the team has done great, everyone worked super hard. I'm quite proud of all of them. We will give you a shout from the lowlands. Take care all. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the whole team!  Fantastic news Jason, I’m looking forward to hearing all about your experience.  Safe descent and “slán abhaile” (Irish for safe home).  Fr Joseph

Posted by: Fr Joseph on 6/17/2016 at 11:16 pm

WoooooHooooooo!!!!!
Way to go all!!
Safe downclimb and tasty beer!

Posted by: Jones-Hartmans on 6/17/2016 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team at Kahiltna Base

June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning. Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey, RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!

Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.

Use your core ;)

Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am

Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!! 

Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit!

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken led their teams to the Mt. Rainier summit! After some light now and 5 mph winds for the ascent, the weather has improved to blue skies and no wind as they topped out. At 9:30 a.m. the teams began their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Calls 12,400’ Their High Point

The Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Robby Young is wrapping up their week on the mountain today. The team will descend from Camp Schurman to the White River Campground before driving back to Ashford this afternoon. On the summit attempt yesterday, the team was able to experience first hand snow pack analysis and decision making. As a result of the snow pack analysis the team made the prudent decision to call 12,400' their high point and descend back to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to greeting the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team back in Ashford today and are excited to hear the stories from their week on the Emmons.
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we're gonna need it! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm


Denali Expedition: The Upper West Rib Team Moves to Balcony Camp

June 15, 2016 - 7:20 P.M. PDT Late last night winds picked up on the upper mountain and persisted into this morning. We woke up early, packed and had breakfast and then watched the wind up high. By 10:30AM we could tell that the trend was diminishing winds, this matched our forecast, so we started up towards the West Rib. The winds had filled in our tracks from the other day so we had to re-break trail back up to our cache. After retrieving our cache we pressed on to gain the ridge and then we picked our way though the first rock band and on up to the balcony camp at 17k. The weather was perfect and with spectacular views of the Alaska Range. The team did a fantastic job today and everyone is feeling good and excited to be climbing. Weather permitting we will go for the summit tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the UWR Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck on your assent.

Steve G

Posted by: Steve on 6/16/2016 at 5:02 pm

Great job team!! Looking forward to your next post. Keep up the good and safe work !!

Posted by: Allison Woodman on 6/16/2016 at 4:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Analyzes Forecast

June 15, 2016 - 12:02 A.M. PDT Weather forecasts in the mountains can change wildly. Last night we heard a report of 70 mph winds on the summit and heavy snow forecast for today. We ended up with perhaps the clearest and calmest day we've had on the whole trip. The winds did pick up this evening as spindrift whipped off the upper mountain but we were quite comfortable in our camp at 14,200'. We rested today, organized gear, drank coffee, and relaxed in the sunshine. The forecast is showing a good weather window for the next three days so our plan is to move up to the Balcony Camp, around 17,000' tomorrow and then make a summit bid on Thursday. Everyone is doing great and very excited about the prospect of moving higher on this beautiful peak. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Steve Gately and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck tomorrow guys! Hoping you get clear skies and no wind. Andrea mou, love you!

Posted by: GSD on 6/15/2016 at 8:09 pm

Jim, Trying a message again.  Mom and I are sure enjoying the beautiful sights you and your team are sharing.  Stoked that you are doing so well and soon to try a summit.  We pray you have a safe climb, enjoy a fabulous view when you reach summit, and all come home safely.  Godspeed! to you, Ben and the whole team.

Posted by: Dad DuBay on 6/15/2016 at 7:42 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs Call Disappointment Cleaver Their High Point

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike King turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning. The team made the prudent decision to call Disappointment Cleaver their high point after assessing the snow pack determined the avalanche danger to be high. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing their descent to Paradise later today.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey Team,
Well I was supposed to climb with you guys June 12-15, but I accepted a job and I ended up moving from Washington state to Texas and June 13 was my first day at the new job.  I had to forfeit my position to climb, just a few weeks ago.
I know the feeling of training for months and then not getting to summit - it’s a bummer.  This would have been my 4th time climbing with RMI on Rainier.  I hope my message can reach someone new to RMI and mountaineering.  Every climb is different and you learn something new each climb.  It’s okay to be bummed for now, but don’t hangup your boots. 
RMI is a class act and the more guides you meet, the more you will be inspired to keep climbing. 
So, if you have that feeling of disappointment or being upset, know that it is normal and you can still tell your friends with pride, you are a mountaineer and that you will be back on Rainier soon.  Happy trails.  Matt

Posted by: Matt Stone on 6/16/2016 at 6:00 pm

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