RMI Expeditions Blog

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT

Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.

As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.

As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.

Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Nikki Champion spent the week at Camp Muir honing their alpine mountaineering skills. While the spring storms kept the team from making their summit attempt, they had a valuable week of training the will prepare the climbers for future expeditions on Aconcagua and Denali. 

During the week the team learned route planning and preparation, avalanche forecasting, instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations; and a discussion/demonstration of knots, anchors leading into crevasse rescue.

The team will be descending today returning to Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.

Thursday, May 19, 2022 -  10:57pm PT

It was a perfect day to switch from lower glacier load hauling to actually climbing. The weather was clear and calm in the morning, so we pumped through a bagel breakfast, grabbed loads of food and fuel, and set our sights on motorcycle hill. Many teams cache at 13,5k just past windy corner, but we had our sights set on 14. The first several hours were pleasant. Sunny, but with just enough air moving to keep us comfortable. Rounding windy corner, there wasn't a breath of wind. The sauna turned on and we all had mild cases of heat panic. We cruised on into 14,000’ camp and got to say hi to Mike Walter and team, who were kind enough to top off some water bottles. With our goal secured, we turned and beat feet back to camp.

It was a solid day out and hard work, so we will reward ourselves with the first proper rest day of the trip tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and Team

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 6:08 pm PT

Today we enjoyed another sunny rest day at 14,000' Camp. Without a breath of wind and cloudless skies we enjoyed possibly the best views of the trip so far. Frigid morning temps quickly gave way to pleasant heat as soon as the sun hit camp. After a casual breakfast we made our way across camp and over to "The Edge of the World," a stunning precipice overlooking the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. Looking down at the tiny dots of Ski Hill camp it was hard to believe we were there just a few days ago! Before retuning to camp we reviewed the skills and gear associated with fixed rope travel in anticipation of our carry up the fixed lines tomorrow. This afternoon has been spent resting and gathering the supplies we intend to cache. As our acclimatization continues and sunny weather persists we are all feeling excited to see the upper mountain. Tomorrow should be a great day for a walk up high!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

Thursday, May 18, 2022 - 12:46 am PT

We took our time over coffee and breakfast burritos this morning, enjoying the slow start and the warming sun that doesn't hit camp until 9 am. Satiated, we left camp and moved quickly downhill to our cache at 9600', relishing the opportunity to stride it out and cover ground. We passed a lot of teams headed towards 11,000' Camp, slowly trudging under the loads of big packs and full sleds. With our cache retrieved, we worked out way back uphill to our cozy camp. Overall, 11,000' Camp felt like it doubled in size today and lots of folks were strolling around, enjoying a warm afternoon. We'll look to continue our momentum tomorrow caching a load of fuel and food up high near Windy Corner.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

We enjoyed great weather and snow conditions yesterday as we moved our camp from 11,200' to Genet Basin at 14,200'. We have a well-deserved rest day on tap today as we fortify camp, eat, drink, and lounge.

This afternoon we will practice some fixed rope travel techniques in preparation for our next task, establishing a cache up high on the West Buttress proper. The weather forecast is looking good, and we may head up the fixed ropes tomorrow to get that cache established. Our team is doing well, taking the challenging work in stride, and adjusting to the lack of oxygen and colder temps up here at our new home. We will keep you updated with our status as we work to get into position for a summit bid. There is still a lot of work to do, a lot of acclimating, and a lot of variables, but so far, we're very pleased with the progress of our expedition and we're not complaining about the beautiful views of the Alaska Range.  

We'll be in touch again tomorrow with the latest. Until then, know we are enjoying the rare mountain air.

RMI Guides Mike, Abby, Henry & Team

Expedition leader Lou Whittaker and several members of the 1982 China-Everest Expedition gathered on May 18, 2022, to commemorate the climb’s 40-year anniversary and pay homage to Marty Hoey, our dear friend and fellow RMI guide, who lost her life on the trip. May 18, was Marty’s birthday. Marty’s 90-some years young mom, Mar, was in attendance along with Everest team members Eric Simonson, Dan Boyd, Joe Horiskey, and Jim Wickwire. Marty, 31 at the time of her death, was a tenured RMI guide attempting to become the first American woman to summit Everest. Marty started guiding on Mt Rainier in the early 70’s, and led expeditions to Denali, Aconcagua, and the Fairweather Range in Alaska. A Memorial honoring Marty and 1963 Everest climber Lute Jerstad is located on the Gig Harbor waterfront at the Bogue Viewing Platform, http://www.cityofgigharbor.net/177/Bogue-Viewing-Platform. Others in attendance included Peter and Kerry Whittaker, Lou’s wife Ingrid, Joe’s wife Marjorie, John Kalbrener, Kip Kalbrener, Leslie Kalbrener, LeRoy Kingland, Randy & Kathy Sackett, Tori Withington, Mary Martha, Craig Reininger, and Christopher Lynch. Christopher’s dad Jerry co-founded RMI with Lou Whittaker in 1969.

May 18, 1980, is notorious, of course, for the eruption of Mt. St. Helens. Pete and Joe recalled their learning of the event while tent-bound in a blizzard at 14,000’ on Denali. Unfortunately, it was to be our ‘high point’ on that particular Denali climb.

Of personal significance is that May 18, 1974, RMI guides John Kalbrener, Laury (Ape) Bye, and Joe Horiskey reached the summit of Denali for the first time! 18 days to the summit and 2 days down. Cliff Hudson flew us off the mountain, we jumped into our waiting 1965 Mustang (prepared to drive back down the Al Can Highway), and immediately ran out of gas! Ray Genet saved our bacon, offering a syphon hose and inviting us to take all we wanted!

Our get-together in Gig Harbor yesterday was a memorable and fitting tribute to a special day, May 18.  

RMI Guide and Owner Joe Horiskey

Hi Everyone -

Our Baker Ski team is back at camp after a successful ski descent of the summit with everyone!!!

Beautiful day up there with great snow.

RMI Guide Grayson Swingle

Monday, May 16, 2022 - 9:37 pm PT

At 4 am this morning the wolf tried his first huff. He then continued to huff and puff and try to blow down our house but we had built it strong. While we hunkered in our tents it was clear that it wasn't a day to try to walk anywhere. It blew for the morning but by early afternoon began to abate and have us a chance to get out of the tents and stretch our legs. This evening turned gorgeous as the wind went calm and the skies cleared. We should have smooth sailing for a move to 11,000' Camp tomorrow. We'll touch base.

RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team