RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting Out The Weather

May 23, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 22, 2016 - 11:34 p.m. PDT We climbed out of the tents this morning hopeful that we would head uphill to cache. Though there was a cap on the summit, the ridge of the West Buttress looked doable. As we fired the stoves though that situation began to change as the cap lowered and the winds over the Buttress picked up. By the end of breakfast we had changed our minds and decided to stay put. That was further reinforced when a climbing ranger stopped by to let us know that NOAA had called with a special weather advisory with high winds and snow. The rangers have taken to naming the storms; this one is Denali storm Daryl. We spent the day resting and hibernating in tents, though so far Daryl has been pretty gentle with us. Tomorrow sounds like it will be another rest day, but if we wake up to something unexpected, we'll rally and get our cache in. Fra Tomas: Gratulerer med dagen Sinnekka! Jeg elsker deg, din Tomas. Signing off, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and team

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Nobody messes with Daryl on TWD; so, I’m glad to hear that you are paying storm Daryl some respect.

Stay low and ride this out. Mother Nature is always in charge.

Posted by: leanne on 5/23/2016 at 3:48 pm

Stay safe .. No guts and glory stuff!!!

Posted by: Peter on 5/23/2016 at 9:45 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to Camp One

May 23, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 22, 2016 - 9:43 p.m. PDT Our first day of climbing as a complete team went really well. Although clouds obscured our views of the incredible scenery around us, we had much better visibly than we had yesterday. Plus, our efforts yesterday lightened our loads just enough that today's climbing was quite manageable. Our camp here at 7,800' is nice, but the snow that's been falling since we got here has made our kitchen/dining tent a most popular place. Our Posh House is always the center of community here; it's the place we can eat and share a hot drink or two and be out of the elements. The conversations that come out of that place... With luck, we'll move camp to 9,600' tomorrow, but we sure would like some improvement in the weather! Everyone is doing great and looking forward to moving up the mountain. Hopefully we'll be talking from 9,600' tomorrow. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling and the crew

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Mike - Mark Winter says he is not concerned about you as long as you stay away from bicycles.
Your scuba family is watching each day and sharing your adventure - although vicariously.

Jim

Posted by: Jim Pearson on 5/25/2016 at 10:08 am

Hey Paul, SO incredibly proud AND jealous of you! Just know that I am living every step vicariously through you and you make your journey to the top! You make training for Whitney seem like a walk in the park - at sea level! Be safe and ENJOY!!

Posted by: Virginia on 5/24/2016 at 7:19 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Complete Seminar and Return to Talkeenta

May 22, 2016

Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 348'

May 22, 2016 - 4:02 pm PT So things were looking pretty grim for flying out yesterday morning. We woke to more snow and a complete whiteout, keeping us locked in camp. We kept ourselves occupied with some games of trivial pursuit, stories and eating. As the day wore on a bit of sun shone thru the clouds and after dinner we heard the unmistakable drone of a DeHaviland Otter. Things were a blur after that. We broke camp in record time and moved our gear to the airstrip and loaded the planes before the weather moved back in. Once in the air we witnessed the skills that make these glacier pilots some of the best around. The clouds were heavy and thick all around us and once Patrick found a hole with some ground below, a few 360 degree diving turns put us under the cloud deck so he could navigate back to Talkeetna by sight, flying just a few hundred feet above the Alaskan tundra. So here we are back in town among the green trees and mosquitoes. A great time in the Alaska range with a fantastic group of people! RMI Guide Leon Davis

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Check in from 14,000 ft Camp

May 22, 2016

Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 22, 2016 - 1:54 pm PT Once again we're checking in from 14k on Denali. There is not much new to report here. The winds up high remain strong, and the National Weather Service has issued a special high wind warning for this storm. We are all comfortable and safe at camp and we'll just have to see how this one plays out. Today is day 18 on the the mountain for our team, and high winds are forecast through at least Thursday. We'll keep you up to date with the latest news. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Thinking alot about you Blake !!
Love you !!

Mom

Posted by: Maria Votilla on 5/24/2016 at 12:58 pm

Team Walter, you guys are already my heroes coming so close to the summit. Respect storm Daryl! No gut or glory stuff! Come home in one piece, Lei. Love you. Hao

Posted by: Hao on 5/23/2016 at 7:31 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Enjoy Time on the Summit

May 22, 2016

Posted by: Casey Grom, Nick Hunt

Categories:

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams were approaching Mt. Rainier's crater rim at 7:30 am. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported clear skies, cold temperatures and very little wind on their summit climb today. The cloud deck is around 9,500' and its beautiful above. The teams left the crater rim just before 9 am to return to Camp Muir. They will continue down to Paradise later today. Congratulations to today's climbing teams!

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Just wanted to follow-up on what Paul said above…Nick, Steve, & Eric - You guys were awesome. Thank you for an awesome experience. Same to you as well Casey, Paul, and Walt. I’ve included all six of you in a Dropbox account should you wish to see the pictures from this awesome adventure!

I also want to say thanks to an amazing team…both A and B. I know I didn’t get to know everyone, but I consider myself grateful to have been able to share this experience with all of you. Thanks to each of you for making this trip that much enjoyable. Please upload your photos to the Dropbox! (Let me know if you didn’t receive the invite…check your junk folders) Between all of us, there should be some pretty amazing pics.

Again thanks to each of you, guides and teammates alike! Much love and All the Best!! - Beau Jackson

Posted by: Beau Jackson on 5/23/2016 at 6:53 pm

A huge thanks again to Casey Grom, Paul Rachele, and Walter Hailes for safely guiding our group to the summit and back. Your level of professionalism, knowledge, enthusiasm, and concern for our safety completely blew me away. It was very obvious to me that each of you are extremely passionate about guiding. I learned so much over the past few days and very much appreciate the enormous effort that each of you contributed to make it a fun, educational, and thoroughly enjoyable four days. I look forward to climbing the next peak with you and RMI…... after I recover from this trip of course :-) Paul.

Posted by: Paul Moran on 5/23/2016 at 3:45 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Reunited at Kahiltna Base Camp

May 22, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

May 22, 2016 - 1:12 am PT Late tonight the sound of planes filled the air with the sweet roar of Turpin prop engines. Our flight service, K2, had taken advantage of a very short and rare window of marginally clear weather to ft three of their Otters onto the glacier to pick up some climbers anxiously awaiting a trip back to civilization, but more importantly to us, they were bringing the rest of our team to finally join us. Day three and we're finally together! This all happened just fifteen minutes after we had returned from a nine hour climb to carry food and fuel to 7800', Camp 1. Everyone did a fantastic job on the climb, and our efforts will make our move tomorrow a bit less tortuous, as normally we carry all our gear up from Base Camp in one move. Let's hope the weather cooperates and we can finally start climbing this mountain. Until tomorrow, RMI Guide Brent Okita and crew

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Pick up Cache and Review Techniques

May 22, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 21, 2016 - 11:43 pm PT Though there was a cap on the upper mountain when we woke, that wasn't the direction of our concern. The snow and winds had abated, and down towards Windy Corner, the sun was shining through thin clouds, setting everything to sparkling. After another great brunch, we grabbed our packs and feeling light as feathers, cruised downhill to our cache. We made quick work of retrieving it, and an hour later were back in camp with a small mountain of food. We spent a bit of time before dinner rigging our ascenders and reviewing fixed line techniques for what we hope to be our carry up onto the West Buttress tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we'll make our first trip up the lines, and all the boxes will be checked for our summit bid. All for now, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

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Following your trail Lisa and it must be incredible. Must be so beautiful. You are awesome!

Posted by: Trix on 5/23/2016 at 6:14 pm

So close.. enjoy every step and the fabulous view, Lisa..! Go higher !! Look forward to seeing the flag !

Posted by: greg hurley on 5/23/2016 at 12:27 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Watching High Winds Blow Above the West Buttress

May 21, 2016

Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 21, 2016 - 7:25 pm PT We spent another day here at 14k. Today the weather at camp was quite pleasant, with periods of sun and just some light wind. Up above on the West Buttress, where we are hoping to climb, the strong winds persisted today. We'll see what tomorrow brings, as the weather forecast is still calling for high winds the next few days. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Top

May 21, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb team for May 18 - 21, 2016, led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres-Martos and Kel Rossiter, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams only spent a short amount of time on the crater rim before starting their descent to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!

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Awesome climb, Robert. We are in awe of you! Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love mom& ron

Posted by: Mom & ron on 5/22/2016 at 6:31 am

Way to go. I am so happy you all made it back safe. I bet it was crazy. I can’t wait to hear all about it. You are all incredible!!!

Posted by: Dean Peyerson on 5/21/2016 at 6:22 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Team works on Knot Tying and Story Telling

May 21, 2016

Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

May 21, 2016 - 10:52 am PT Well today our team got to practice a Denali soft skill that may be one of the most crucial; How to occupy your mind when the weather keeps you stagnant. We woke up inside a Ping pong ball and this strange snow that turned to rain as soon as it touched us. The team spent most of the day inside the kitchen telling stories, laughing and tying 50 meters worth of knots on our climbing rope. At times it was a tough lesson but the team stood strong. After dinner the skies started to break and eager for some activity, we broke camp and made a move back to base camp. It was eerily calm to have the glacier all to ourselves in a whiteout. It's just past midnight now and we have just crawled into our tents. Tomorrow we are really hoping for some sun! RMI Guide Leon Davis

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting Out The Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to Camp One

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Complete Seminar and Return to Talkeenta

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Check in from 14,000 ft Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Enjoy Time on the Summit

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Reunited at Kahiltna Base Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Pick up Cache and Review Techniques

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Watching High Winds Blow Above the West Buttress

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Top

Alaska Seminar: Team works on Knot Tying and Story Telling

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