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RMI Expeditions Blog


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

June 13, 2014 - 6:45 pm PT After caching food and gear on the ridge yesterday, we are back at our 14k camp waiting for a weather window to move up. The forecast is showing an improving trend in the next few days. For now we are waiting, passing the time by throwing the football around, playing ice axe horseshoes, and sport eating. We are, of course, anxious for the weather to improve, but spirits are high and the rest is only making us stronger. Well, that's all for now, we are keeping our fingers crossed for good weather. Thanks for following our progress. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I shall be in Arvin ,California on Monday ,June 16th….ELEVATION 449.  Someone in this family has to stay grounded and out of the clouds…...MOM….always the voice of reason!
I will stay close to my phone so I don’t miss any important calls.

Happy Fathers Day to all of you Dads out there, following the expedition!!!!!!!

 

 

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 6:27 pm

Hey John and UWR Team,

Monday, June 16, around noon, I should be at 14,505’ on Mt. Whitney for my annual trek.  You may be on your summit push near that time, 20,237’.  The sum is 34,742 feet. I will wave towards you! That is cruising altitude for most airliners.  What a special coincidence, that is the day the Forest Service gave me my permit.  Your Mother should have quite the day.  Good luck to the UWR Team.

Love, Dad

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 4:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Rest and Re-Fuel

June 13, 2014 3:21pm PT Denali is a mountain of many moods. Yesterday, as we carried our cache to our highest point yet, she gave us a taste of moderate winds and blowing snow, showing a little irritation. Today, she seems more benign, with light winds, high clouds, and intermittent snow here in camp. The tents are warm and comforting, and we're all enjoying a well earned rest session. To that end, we started the morning with plenty of hot coffee, endless strips of crispy, delicious bacon, and the Tyler Jones specialty of blueberry pancakes that would give the best griddle cooks a serious run for their money. The perfectly browned hot cakes, the secrets of which TJ learned from his grandpa, just kept coming, and we all ate our fill until we couldn't stuff another one down. The remainder of the day will be dedicated to recuperation, re-hydration, and maximum relaxation. In fact, the main goal is to move as little as possible and save our energy for the climbing to come. Until then, we'll be standing by, waiting for the best window for our summit push. Thanks for all the positive vibes and keep'em coming! Cheers for now, check back tomorrow... Team No Troubles
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dave, Although I believe you are on the mountain, I want some proof with some close-up pictures of you!  Put them on this site so we can see them.  I hope you’re staying warm.  Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/15/2014 at 10:12 am

Hi Paul. I’m hoping that your journey is not harder than you imagined, and that your still enjoying yourself. Things are going good here. It was supposed to rain most of the weekend, but had some sun, so did some weeding. (BLAH!!!!) Just finished eating my “Sunday” night papa’s pizza. ( We’re breaking all kinds of rules when your gone. Haha!) Stay safe. We miss you. Alex & the dogs, say Happy Dad’s Day!!! Love Ronda, Al, Meeka (the dog who drank half my coffee this AM) and Max.

Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/14/2014 at 5:25 pm


Father’s Day Video: the Kilimanjaro Family Climb

Happy Father's Day! Peter Whittaker and his daughter on the summit of Kilimanjaro (Jon Mancuso). Happy Father's Day! See the video of Peter Whittaker's climb of Kilimanjaro, Africa's tallest mountain, with his daughter Gabriella and on sharing the experience of the mountains, presented by Eddie Bauer/First Ascent.

Whittaker Father-Daughter Kilimanjaro Climb from Eddie Bauer on Vimeo.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thank you to the Whittaker family for sharing this inspiring family achievement.

Much appreciated.

Kind regards


Sue Newby-House

Posted by: Sue Newby-House on 7/13/2014 at 9:00 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache

June 13, 2014 12:18am PT After a good night's rest the team hit the trail again, heading back to 9,700' feet to retrieve our cache. The weather was great and everyone enjoyed the cool temps and beautiful scenery. It was a great day to stretch the legs. Back at camp we rested a bit and then reviewed some basic techniques required for life on the upper mountain. Now reacquainted with our emergency ice axe skills and proficient cramponing, we are prepared to carry toward 14,000' Camp if the weather allows. Now it's off to bed to be ready for a big day tomorrow if we can catch a break on the weather. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Birthday Edd

Posted by: christine beach on 6/14/2014 at 10:02 am

Hey Jared and team, Keep up the good work! Watching you everyday on the blog-Stay strong and Im praying for great weather. We all Love you Mom and Dad :)

Posted by: Donna Schulz on 6/13/2014 at 10:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

June 12, 2014 10:25pm PT After sitting watching the wind blow furiously for two days, we finally got the break we needed to climb up to the Rib and cache some gear. The trail breaking was deep, often between mid-calf and mid-thigh and required us to swap guides breaking trail every stretch. Conditions on the Rib itself were great. The wind had swept away most of the powder, leaving perfect Styrofoam snow- an ideal surface for cramponning. Eventually we found a cache location around 15,800'. The weather above us was windy and cold, but we were able to bury the gear and head downhill without getting punished by the weather. As we tuck into bed, the team has a content feeling that everything is in order and all we need is suitable weather to push for the summit. Thanks to everyone who has followed our progress. Much love and warm thoughts. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the UWR team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

That’s a lot of bagels.  John, I told you that you would miss the Kings winning the Stanley Cup! It was a nail biter. Now I can fully concentrate on your team’s achievements.  I’m very excited by your march to the top and am with you every step of the way.  Everyone, continue to have fun and stay strong.  Tante

Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:46 pm

The photo of “stashin’ the cache” gives new meaning to the old fashioned term “icebox”!!!
I am loving the photos that you guys are sending us. They are really giving us a visual of all that you are experiencing. Although, the temperatures up there are beyond my comprehension!  Stay strong, stay safe!!! Lots of love to all of you!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:10 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Pete Van Deventer were turned at 12,600’ due to weather. The team climbed into a cap and reported low visibility, cold temperatures, snow showers a couple of inches of accumulation and light to moderate winds. The teams are en route Back to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon. Congratulations to Today's Teams.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Will and Tim it was an honor to have attempted the summit of Rainier with you. Pete, I would follow your lead up any mountain my friend. You kept it cool and calm under all conditions, including me tugging at your rope at 12,000ft.

Posted by: charles on 6/18/2014 at 7:57 am

Good try Ted and friends.  Weather can be the decider up on Rainier.  The Top of the Cleaver is still high, and it is the crux of the route you were on.  The mountain will always be there and I know you will go back.  Hopefully, I can go with you again!  Still a great adventure and a big accomplishment.
Dad

Posted by: Jim Daverman on 6/13/2014 at 4:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude. Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp. As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep. For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm

Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.

Posted by: Christine on 6/13/2014 at 9:26 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

June 12, 2014 - 9:02 pm PT RMI Team Haugen is at Kahiltna Basecamp. We departed just before 9:00 am from Talkeetna as the weather was clearing and Denali was looming in the distance. We have taken the day to organize our gear and get a plan together to tackle the lower glacier. Basecamp is in good shape with all of the new snowfall and we are excited to head out towards Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We plan on leaving basecamp very early since it did get pretty warm during midday today. The adventure begins! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bruce & Michael - You’re living the life you love & loving the life you live. GOOD LUCK to your entire team!  xo Jen

Posted by: Jen Bush on 6/13/2014 at 6:17 pm

Dear Bruce and Michael,
It is great to see you “climbing” your dream.  Sending you well wishes,
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Damico on 6/13/2014 at 2:59 pm


Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Fly onto the Glacier!

June 12, 2014 9:20am PT It looks like we got lucky with the weather and found ourselves a day to fly! The mountain is visible from Talkeetna which seems like it is a rarity this season. All systems go! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Onward & Upward Bruce!

Posted by: Cheryl & Ken on 6/26/2014 at 12:19 am

Wow Bruce! You are there. Wait a minute. The tail of the plane behind you says “K2”. Are you in Pakistan? :)

Posted by: Kris McCann on 6/13/2014 at 3:35 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’

June 12, 2014 10:22am PT Yesterday was a great day. After a few storm days at the base of ski hill, the weather let us leave camp. Waking early we set off in good walking temps but no visibility for higher on glacier. The snow was deep and as the first team to make the move, we enjoyed breaking trail for a few hours before the skies cleared and a descending team provided a nicely broken trail. The views were spectacular and honestly the clearest of the whole trip. The team put in a big day yesterday and are enjoying a leisurely morning here at 11,200 before back carrying later today to pick up our cache at 9700. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to the guides and team!
So glad to hear you could move up.
love you Dawn and all the others!

Mom.

Posted by: Hye Kim on 6/13/2014 at 10:28 am

Good luck to the guides and all their charges! I hope everyone is well and the views continue to be awe inspiring and frequent.          i
IL Padrino

Posted by: padrino on 6/13/2014 at 9:29 am

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