Entries from Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Last night's winds abated in camp, but up high that was not the case. A large, menacing lenticular cloud covered the upper portion of the mountain and wind could be seen blowing plumes of snow off of the West Buttress. But, the storm seems to be on its way out. We are hoping to move to high camp tomorrow or the next day and have a go at the summit. We'll see what the weather has in store, but at least it is improving. From Robbie: Happy birthday Vanessa! RMI Guide Mike Walter

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Elevation: 11,200'

May 24, 2017 Well, the weather has changed, and not for the best. Wind and snow intensified this morning, so much so that we postponed our departure to retrieve our cache from 10,000' for a bit to make sure a big storm didn't move in. But the weather held off enough for us to bring our cache back to camp. Now we're set. This continually amazes me. When we got back I thought we all deserved a break, figuring an hour or two of tent time to rest up would be most welcome, 20-30 minutes later I hear most everyone out cutting blocks to beef up the walls we already had. Impressive! We're sitting pretty now, ready for anything. Should tomorrow's weather preclude a carry to cache at 13,500', that would be just fine. Everyone has been working so hard and so well that some tent time is probably in order. Even, I am looking forward to a rest day soon. And we're all looking forward to some better weather. Our peek at the mountains surrounding us last night just made us want more. Oh, and in case you were wondering what was on the menu today. Scrambled eggs, hash browns and bacon for breakfast. An assortment of Indian food, served on a bed of rice and chicken, followed by a nice pudding for dessert. Mmm. That's it from 11,200' camp. Good night. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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I did this route in Juky 1970 with Ray Genet. Good luck and be safe!

Posted by: William Dailey on 5/25/2017 at 5:18 pm

Keep up the good work, I am simply “blown away” by your accomplishment so far, with love,
NeeNee, JT’s grandma

Posted by: carol m smith on 5/25/2017 at 12:36 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Elevation: 14,000

May 24, 2017 Well, the Denali storm has arrived (we are calling it the Horiskey storm). We woke to snow this morning, and as the day had progressed, the winds have strengthened. Lots of snow is moving around camp, and being out of a tent is really unpleasant. So we've stayed in the tents. Our cook tent is nice and tight, and our individual tents were occupied with napping, music, and reading. The storm is supposed to peak tomorrow, so probably more of the same in store. Our walls are strong, our sleeping bags warm, and our bellies full, so all in all, life is good. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait Out the Storm

May 24, 2017

Elevation: 14,000'

We're hunkered down in camp today as a strong storm is producing snow and wind over Denali. We can hear the winds howling a few thousand feet above us, sounding like waves crashing on a rocky shore. Here at camp it is windy but not nearly that extreme. Winds here are gusting in 20 mph range, which is not too bad at all. We have big walls built to protect our camp, so our tents are just barely shaking. We expect this storm to persist through tomorrow and hopefully we'll have better weather in its wake with which to make a summit push. Our fingers are crossed! RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

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Like the warmth of the sun
And the light of the day,
May the luck of the Irish
Shine bright on your way

Best wishes for Saturday’s push to the summit, Love Mom

Posted by: Cynthia Chitwood on 5/25/2017 at 7:34 pm

Well, the water heater has been replaced, the leaking toilet has been repaired, the weather has cooled off so no need for air conditioners or screens, the lawn is freshly mowed, and the sun is shining for the first time in days. Hope that portends good weather on Denali as well. Thinking of all of you hunkering down in your tents. Hope everyone has good reading material!
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Hines on 5/25/2017 at 5:23 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy First Full Rest Day

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Elevation: 14,000

May 23, 2017 We took our first full rest day at 14. The winds were moving snow up high, but it was a pretty glorious day here in Genet Basin. We spent the day improving our walls for winds that are forecasted to huff and puff, and also practiced for our eventual trip up the fixed lines. Mike Walter's team challenged us to a jeopardy game this evening, and we're happy to report that we took the prize, with a score of 200 to 0 (though both teams spent a long time in the negative area). We'll see what tomorrow brings. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway and team

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Jordan!

Looks like you and the team are doing well, hope you had a good rest day. Seriously though stop being lazy and get to the top of the mountain! Miss seeing you, stay safe, and don’t worry the sky isn’t falling around here without you.

Regards,

Posted by: TJ Burns on 5/24/2017 at 7:38 pm

Such an amazing experience for you all. I am a friend of Joel Broder’s friend, Susie Okun. She was talking about your hike today and hooked me up with your blog. The pictures are beautiful. You must be having an incredible time! Enjoy and be safe. XO

Posted by: Jackie Mossman on 5/24/2017 at 2:59 pm

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Arrive at 11,200’ Camp

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Elevation: 11,200'

Another cloudy, snowy day greeted us this morning but didn't stop us from pushing on. Typical of weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, there was enough new snow and poor visibility to make the going difficult, but certainly not enough to call it a storm day and relax in the tents. Upon reaching camp at 11,200' the sun broke through and we were treated to our first sunshine of the trip. What a nice welcome. The sun sticks around late here, and we've enjoyed every bit of it, hanging out in the Posh for a couple hot drinks and sharing stories. Tomorrow we look forward to our easiest day when we just need to retrieve the cache we buried at 10,000'. The forecast calls for a little storm to brush by us tomorrow or the next day, but I don't see any sign of that yet. If it does, we'll just dig in and enjoy a rest day I guess. Everyone's climbing super well and in good spirits. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Fortify Camp at 14,000’

May 23, 2017

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday May 23, 2017 3:32pm We got a little snow overnight, and it's relatively pleasant outside today. The summit is still wearing a lenticular cap today and major storm with snow and extreme wind is forecast to hit us tomorrow. We've fortified camp and we're ready for what it brings. Our hope is that in its wake we will have a shot at the summit. We'll let you know how it plays out. RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

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Mike and Gang: I remember hunkering down for a week at that very same location just five years ago - stay patient and optimistic. Mike, I wish I were climbing with you again. However, I leave in two months with Pete to take on Elbrus. Stay in touch and keep your team focused and motivated! Prayers and positive vibes your way, team - you’ve got this!

Peace, Lee Hoedl, Fellow RMI Climber (Denali, Aconcagua, Cotopaxi, etc…)

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 5/24/2017 at 3:03 pm

Following you, Mike. Glad you are all hunkered down - hoping you get your weather break soon. Sure is beautiful there!!

Posted by: Ann Douglass on 5/24/2017 at 5:07 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Sitting Comfortably at 14,000’ Camp

May 23, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Elevation: 14,000

Yesterday's hard day of work left everyone tired, and nearly everyone slept really hard last night. We woke up late, lingered over a breakfast of pancakes, and then set to work improving our camp. We put up some big walls to keep out the wind, and built a nice covered toilet to keep things comfortable. With the project finished, we ate a quick lunch, then strolled downhill to retrieve our cache. We're in really good shape now, with a well fortified camp and all of our belongings here with us. Now, we wait for our opportunity. We'll be in touch, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway, and team

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Greetings from South Carolina. You can do this…. Think of some place warm. No seriously proud of you and glad your getting the chance to have this great experience. Happy hiking. And to quote the Hunger Games “May the odds be ever in your favor”

Posted by: Crystal's mom :) on 5/24/2017 at 7:47 pm

Jordan,

The next days will be extreme in every way but I know you will get to the top of that hill. May the force be with you!

Grampa

Posted by: Edward Foss on 5/24/2017 at 6:10 pm

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cruise to 9,600’ Camp

May 23, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Elevation: 9,600'

Two days of carrying huge loads is finally over. We have single carried to Camp 2 at 9600' and are ready to start packing lighter loads as we begin the routine of making double carries to get all our gear and food up the mountain. What has impressed me most about this team is not just their strength, but their ability to endure and toil under mammoth loads without complaint. This is a special group. Our weather has been snowy, but not bad enough to keep us in our tents. That said, we did set up our Posh House this afternoon which serves as our cook tent and dining room in one. It's warmth and comfort allow us some fun and social time that provides a really nice balance to our climbing. And what was on the menu tonight? Burritos with all the fixings. Yeah, we eat well up here. We sure as hec deserve it. Ok. That's a wrap for the night. Tomorrow we move to 11,200' camp, if the weather gods allow. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

May 22, 2017