RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,650'
Thursday, May 12, 2022 - 7:10 pm PT
Today was nearly a mirror image of yesterday's weather: mostly sunny, then partly cloudy, then mostly cloudy. It made for great travel as we ascended Ski Hill. As we gained the 9500' plateau, mostly cloudy changed to light snow and moderate winds coming through Kahiltna Pass. We had another good day, and decided to cache at ~9650' rather than press further into deteriorating weather. After leaving our gear deep in the hole we dug, we descended back down Ski Hill to camp in time for a little siesta. We'll hope for good weather tomorrow so we can bump camp up to 11,200'. We'll let you know how it goes.
Posted by: Brent Okita, Dominic Cifelli, Dustin Wittmier, Seth Burns, Jess Wedel, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
What a difference a day makes. 40mph snow and wind at Camp Muir. A perfect day to train inside.
After a cloudy walk up the Muir Snowfield on Monday we enjoyed two gorgeous, sunny days of training on Tuesday and Wednesday, learning the basics of snow and ice climbing, glacier travel, crevasse rescue and ice climbing.
This morning the weather has changed! Blowing snow all night and day has us thankful for the shelter of the bunkhouse at Camp Muir where we're learning about avalanches - how to avoid them, use the tools of the trade and perform a rescue.
We'll continue with other topics of interest and get out for some hands on training if and when we can do it safely outside.
Everyone is doing great and happy we got so much training in even though our summit aspirations are no longer realistic after finding serious signs of avalanche hazard on the slopes leading to the summit.
We'll be headed down tomorrow morning after some training and packing up in the morning.
Thank you for all of the updates for those of us at lower elevations here in the Twin Cities and others! I am sorry to hear you won’t be able to summit but am glad you all are taking precautions. Enjoy the views from up there, it’s something not everyone gets to experience in their lifetimes. Good work team!!
Posted by: April Londo on 5/13/2022 at 4:34 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'
May 12, 2022 - 10:08 am PT
We had great weather yesterday and were able to fly in to Kahiltna Base Camp. We hit the ground running and took advantage of the weather to move to the base of Ski Hill. Light cloud cover kept temperatures perfect for climbing, and the Kahiltna Glacier was in remarkably good condition, which made for a pleasant day in the mountains. Our packs and sleds were heavy, but our team did great getting to camp and establishing camp. This morning the good weather is continuing, and we're getting ready to head off on a carry, establishing a cache up above Ski Hill. We'll be in touch and let you know how it goes.
Best of luck to the entire team! I play Pickleball in southern Florida with John Corona. I just returned from Seattle with beautiful views of the mountainous area in Washington. Can’t imagine your strength and courage to climb! Keeping you all in my thoughts and prayers that the weather continues good and you have a magnificient climb! Peace to all! Mary
Posted by: Mary Cormier on 5/15/2022 at 6:01 am
Hey !!!! Best of luck on the climb Mike! This grey-bearded old man is headed to Rainier this week and will be ready for you to lead me to 20,310’ in May ‘23! Be safe. Godspeed & Good Weather. If you have any questions about the weather, ask your rock.
Posted by: Tim Morris on 5/12/2022 at 3:50 pm
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Wednesday, May 11, 2022 - 9:56 pm PT
We awoke to another blue bird day in the amazing Ruth Gorge. The morning was spent enjoying a leisurely breakfast while waiting for the sun to hit camp. Once the sun had warmed us up from the evenings cold, we geared up and set out to do some exploring and training. We headed off across the glacier until we reached the eastern edge of the Ruth Glacier. After picking our way through the jumbled labyrinth of the broken edge of the glacier, we ascended a moraine and refreshed our mountaineering skills and learned a few new ones. Lunch was had with beautiful views of the 5,000 foot granite east face of Mt. Dickey. Then we meandered back to camp, practiced anchors, devoured some bacon cheese burgers and relaxed for the evening. Tomorrow we will combine all our technical skills acquired so far and learn crevasse rescue using a real live crevasse!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
RMI’s Denali climbing season is kicking off. Out team spent yesterday in Talkeetna packing and prepping for our expedition. Spreading our gear out in one of K2 Aviation’s hangars, we went through all of our clothing, food, and climbing equipment to fine-tune everything and be sure our checklists were complete. Everything was weighed and labeled for the airplanes. This morning we’ll touch base with K2 to see what the flying conditions are like. Our hope is to fly in to Kahiltna Basecamp today. Located on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, this glacier runway will be our approach to the West Buttress of Denali.
Our team looks well prepared, and everyone is eager to embark on this multi-week expedition. We’ll keep you up to date along the way as we slowly progress higher on Denali’s slopes. I’ll be in touch with flying conditions and our status.
Sending the best vibes your way!
Posted by: Abby P on 5/12/2022 at 6:40 am
Stay safe and have fun !!!
Posted by: Don West on 5/11/2022 at 9:42 pm
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 4,500'
Tuesday, May 10, 2022 - 9:00 pm PT
Greetings from the Ruth Gorge!
This morning we woke to beautiful weather and knew our time had come to fly into the Alaska range. After we landed on the glacier at the Sheldon mountain house we packed, roped up and headed down into the Ruth gorge. We walked down the valley glacier towards camp with endless granite walls on either side. We set our base camp for the trip and enjoyed splendid views with dinner. Getting some well earned rest tonight!
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 348'
We spent the day on the airstrip with high hopes of flying out in the afternoon. While waiting we took advantage of the free time to start practicing technical skills. After brushing up on knots and anchors we learned how to ascend a rope with the anticipation of ascending out of a crevasse on the Ruth Glacier. Unfortunately the weather never broke today. However, with the pilots optimistic about tomorrow morning, we loaded up all our gear on a plane hoping to fly out first thing tomorrow!
RMI Guide Avery Parrinello
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Steve Gately, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,600'
The Mt. Baker Summit and Ski Descent team led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer wrapped up their time on Mt. Baker today. The team took advantage of short periods of sun breaks to ski around Sandy Camp. Low clouds, snow, and poor visibility prevented the team from ascending too far out of camp. Pete reports great skiing and a happy team, making the most of their time on the mountain.
Posted by: Eric Frank, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,200'
The Four Day Climb May 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Grayson Swingle ascended to Camp Muir yesterday. The team left from Camp Muir this morning and ascended to Ingraham Flats. More new snow and avalanche danger made this their high point but they did enjoy some blue skies and sunshine. The team left Camp Muir on their descent to Paradise. We will look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Go MBK!!!
Posted by: ELLIS RICHMAN on 5/10/2022 at 5:54 am
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Hello everyone and welcome to the first blog post from the best trip RMI offers, the Ruth Glacier Seminar!
Yesterday the team flew into Anchorage accompanied by beautiful skies and amazing views of five different mountain ranges! After gathering up at the airport we hopped in the shuttle and drove to Talkeetna, got some food and called it an early night since we were all travel weary.
Today was spent organizing and double checking all our gear so that the next nine days in the Great Gorge would go as smoothly as possible. What didn't go smoothly was the weather, we were informed midday that there was a persistent cloud layer down low on the Ruth Glacier. Our chance of flying in was unlikely and as late afternoon turned to evening, we sadly had to postpone our flying in. We are hoping to wake up tomorrow with better weather and fly on to the glacier early in the morning!
Cheers,
RMI Guides Jack Delaney, Avery Parinello and the team.
Thanks for the posts. It is fun to keep up-to-date with the climb!!
Posted by: Deb Beaudway on 5/13/2022 at 3:16 pm
Thanks for updates. Basic weather forecast looks very good starting Saturday.
Posted by: Paul Kent on 5/13/2022 at 11:16 am
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