RMI Expeditions Blog

Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

April 16, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds. The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions. I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’. As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility. We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day. On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility. This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir. We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound. We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule. Signing off for now, RMI Guide Brent Okita

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010. He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers. Mariana and I continued to the summit, led by Solveig Waterfall. I will always be grateful to Zeb for his kind and thoughtful pace out of Muir . . . I’ve not seen him since, but want to send a big hello his way and the heads up that I will be forever grateful to him for his efforts that Father’s Day. Thanks, Zeb!!!

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 9:58 pm

Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound! Think warm thoughts! Hugs to Mike and Steve

Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 7:59 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Everest: The Team Prepares for the Next Phase of the Expedition

April 16, 2014

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hello out there. Billy here checking in for the rest of the gang after another day deep in the Khumbu. Not much to report on another rest day here, other than the fact that the NCell tower began sporadically working today after nearly a ten-day outage. Our team was starting to go crazy... I mean it was like camping back in the 90's where you were in a deep black hole. Anyway, clear skies this morning meant more helicopters buzzing basecamp as a film production crew has been ferrying tons of equipment up valley. The rumor is that they'll need more than fifty flights to get all of their gear in, we're all looking forward to it! Regardless, we're rested and ready for the next phase of our climb which involves an early wakeup dress rehearsal for tomorrow. It's the last step before we begin our first true rotation up the mountain. All for now, will check in again tomorrow after another romp through the icefall... RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Casey Grom - just checking in on you. Just read about the avalanche and of course I immediately thought of you. Be safe.
- Janel
Posted by: Janel Miller on 4/18/2014 at 5:43 am

Posted by: Janel Miller on 4/18/2014 at 7:04 am

Nicole & Team sending blessings and prayers up to the top of the world. Thinking of you all, all those who left families and friends behind. Praying you are all safe, warm, healthy, and in good strong spirits.

Posted by: Tatiana on 4/18/2014 at 5:08 am

View All Comments

Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

April 15, 2014

Posted by: Mark Tucker, Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Summit... of Kalapathar! The team took on Kalapathar, and had a great payday of views galore. Nice weather for most of the day. The Sherpa team also benefited from weather as they are nearly done with all the makings of Camp 2. One comment from a Sherpa that it was very hot in the Khumbu Icefall. Seems ironic. The climbing team is gearing up for a possible early morning test run in the Icefall. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Is everything ok? Our news said there was an avalanche on Everest. Please let us know if it didn’t
affect you.

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 9:11 pm

Hi Kara
I’m back home. Had a really nice time in LA. Was 85 there—-came home to 35 in Cleve. Your trip is looking amazing and beautiful and cold and challenging.
So glad it’s going well. Keep up the good work everyone
What an awesome experience.

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 6:33 am

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Checks In as the Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

April 15, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

We had a great day for making our way to Camp Muir yesterday. Blue skies and just enough wind to keep us from over heating. Everyone did well! Camp Muir will be home through Friday. The next few days we'll be training around Camp Muir. It's going to be a fantastic week! RMI Guide Brent Okita

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens Looks Back On AMGA Ice Instructor Course

April 15, 2014

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

With support from the Eddie Bauer - RMI Guide Grant, RMI Guide Geoff Schellens took part in an American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Ice Instructor Course this winter near Ouray, Colorado. Afterward, Geoff sat down and shared some stories from the course. Ice climbing is a unique discipline of climbing, which poses specific challenges for the climber: ice fall, rock fall, specific equipment needs, over heating, becoming too cold, and avalanche hazards, just to name a few. Guiding ice climbing requires quite a bit of preparation, awareness, and technique to mitigate these challenges. Ice Climbing on Dexter Falls (Geoff Schellens)

Ice Climbing on Dexter Falls (Geoff Schellens)

On the third day of my five-day AMGA Ice Instructor Course, we had planned to take two groups to Eureka, Colorado, to climb long multi-pitch ice routes. Avalanches from large snow bowls above threaten many of these routes, like the classic Stairway to Heaven. On this cold, crisp morning we encountered six inches of new snow, and after driving up to Red Mountain Pass we decided that the avalanche risk was too high and opted to go with our back up plan: climbing at Dexter Falls. Dexter is just north of Ouray, Colorado, and offers excellent multi-pitch ice routes that are exposed to less avalanche hazard. Climbing Dexter Falls with two teams of three climbers posed new guiding challenges. Namely, avoiding knocking ice onto the climbers below. We chose to climb with both teams parallel to each other to protect against this. Parallel rope technique requires that the lead climber is thoughtful about where both following climbers will be ascending. The goal to keep them on slightly separate routes, allowing any loose ice to fall without risking injury to either climber. Ice Climbing (Geoff Schellens)

The climbing was fun and we topped out having done it in a safe manner. Climbing ice in Ouray, Colorado, or anywhere for that matter, is easy and enjoyable after acquiring a relatively straightforward skill set. I hope you enjoy the photos! ____ Geoff Schellens is a senior guide for RMI Expeditions, leading trips in Argentina, the North Cascades, Alaska, and Colorado. Geoff is currently climbing Dhaulagiri, an 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas. See more of Geoff’s mountain photography on his website The Exposed Edge.

Mt. Everest: Rest Day for the Team at Everest Base Camp

April 14, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today was a well-timed rest day. Following our recent daily pattern, it was sunny and calm in the morning and snowing and socked in by noon. The team took the chance to wash up and get clean during the sunny hours, and then hunkered down within the tents for the afternoon. The much talked about Everest Basecamp WiFi hotspots and 3G cell coverage have both been dysfunctional in the extreme of late, bringing the teams back virtually to the 1990's in terms of connectivity... roughing it. Yesterday was a very popular day for Puja ceremonies and so the drab moraine rubble we call home was transformed by a vast spiderweb of interconnected colorful prayer flags streaming from the numerous chortens. Tomorrow, our Sherpa team is geared up for a carry to Camp II while the climbers have a conditioning hike to Kalapathar in mind. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Luv You! Take care we are with you everyday and are so proud of you. Go for it Nicole and team!!!

Posted by: Mimi on 4/15/2014 at 5:53 pm

Nicole Lobiondo: Sounds like a great day of rest. I am sure you are seeing many amazing things and views. Big hug!!! Nicole

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/15/2014 at 6:36 am

View All Comments

Mt. Everest: Team Continues Training

April 13, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, JJ Justman, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today the team went uphill in a few big ways. The Sherpa team carried loads all the way to Camp II (ABC) at 21,300 ft before returning to base while the climbing guides and climbers geared up and traveled to the first ladders in the icefall route. It takes about 90 minutes or so to reach those lowest ladders, but we figure it was pretty good practice. The "trail" involves a lot of crampon work up and down endless ice ridges before the actual fixed ropes begin. The fixed lines take a little getting used to when it comes to passing intermediate anchors in steep and awkward spots. Then we started encountering the much anticipated ladders, the first few this season being short and simple. But we continued on until we hit a slightly longer set of ladder sections tied together and bridging a pretty deep and dark crevasse. The team took turns tip-toeing across the rungs and from time to time just standing back to watch Sherpa climbers dance effortlessly across in their descent from a hard day of work. Descent from that big and worthy crevasse a little over 18,000 ft was pretty good training all in itself. The team moved better and better as climbers got accustomed to the routines of "arm-rappels" and clipping past snow and ice anchors. We reached the crampons-off point just as the daily afternoon snowstorm began, but that meant we were only ten minutes from camp. Once back in our home away from home it was an easy afternoon of lunch, games, naps and good conversation. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide and Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker checks in with an update on the Mt. Everest Expedition.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending nothing but good vibes your way Spenny boy!

Posted by: Danny on 4/15/2014 at 12:37 pm

Nicole Lobiondo: Tracking you every day and thrilled to hear the team and you are going great. Stay warm and enjoy every minute. Love, Nicole H

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/14/2014 at 6:36 am

View All Comments

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

April 12, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We'll keep you posted on the move. So far the "mountain of storms." We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we'll check in later. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

STAY SAFE, my brave caballeros!

Posted by: nsb on 4/18/2014 at 11:35 am

Elias: Fingers crossed that you and your team get some good weather in the coming days. Hang in there!!!

Chris Palmer

Posted by: Chris Palmer on 4/13/2014 at 6:37 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Everest: Sherpa & Guide Teams Check Out Camp 1 as Climbing Team Acclimatizes on Pumori

April 12, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from Mount Everest. We're still doing voice dispatches. We don't have internet connectivity yet. There is hope that we'll have it in the next couple of days if they fix the cell tower down valley. Things are going well up here. Our Sherpa team and our guide team went through the Icefall yesterday. Some of the first to go through the Khumbu Icefall for this season. We went to Camp 1 and came back down yesterday morning. All was well. Today the climbing team, went to Pumori Camp 1. Pumori is one of the beautiful mountains around base camp. Of course we didn't go for the summit of that; it would be pretty technical. But going up to Camp 1 was good exercise and got us up to some altitude. It wasn't the best day for being out in the hills. It was kind of snowy and gray but we made a good outing out of it. And then had an easy afternoon back here at base camp, so everything's going well. The base camp is filling up. Lots of teams coming in now. So it's getting a little bit more like regular Everest season by now. All for today. We'll keep in touch. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Dave Hahn calls in after first time this season through the Khumbu Icefall.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nicole Lobiondo: Looks amazing and great job with Camp 1!!!! Go Nikita. Love you. Nic

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/14/2014 at 6:33 am

How exciting Nicole! Please return safely. Love Auntie Woo

Posted by: Cheryl Moothart on 4/13/2014 at 4:39 pm

View All Comments

RMI Hosts Prep for Rainier Classes at REI

April 11, 2014

Posted by: Ben Liken, Paul Maier

Categories: Guide News

RMI is hosting several Prep for Rainier classes over the months of February, March, and April at local REI stores in the Puget Sound area. Join RMI's experienced guides to discuss everything that is needed to prepare for Mt. Rainier, including conditioning, trip planning, route selection, and equipment selection to climb Washington State's highest point! Come out to your local REI store to hear stories and answer your questions about Mt. Rainier!

Tuesday

4/15/2014

7:00pm

REI Redmond with RMI Guide Paul Maier

More info...

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nice idea - any chance of youtube?

Posted by: wraalstad on 3/6/2013 at 6:10 am

Hey, how about a class at the Spokane store ? I would be there. Would like to do Rainier this summer and it would be great to be prepared. Thanks. David

Posted by: David Seurynck on 2/15/2013 at 10:50 pm

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

RMI Expeditions Blog

Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

Mt. Everest: The Team Prepares for the Next Phase of the Expedition

Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Checks In as the Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens Looks Back On AMGA Ice Instructor Course

Mt. Everest: Rest Day for the Team at Everest Base Camp

Mt. Everest: Team Continues Training

On The Map

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

Mt. Everest: Sherpa & Guide Teams Check Out Camp 1 as Climbing Team Acclimatizes on Pumori

On The Map

RMI Hosts Prep for Rainier Classes at REI

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

RMI Expeditions Blog

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches