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RMI Expeditions Blog

Vinson Massif: Guides Arrive in Punta Arenas, Chile

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

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This is Seth and Billy checking in from Punta Arenas, Chile. We arrived yesterday afternoon after 31 straight hours of travel. Lucky for us all of our 13 bags made the trip with us! We're meeting up with the rest of the crew this evening and in the meantime we are going to get some fresh food to take to Antarctica. We are also going to continue to enjoy the one (1) song that is on continuous loop here in the hotel restaurant. We'll check in again tomorrow!
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MAW,
Here hoping for clear conditions so you can get to Antartica and start your ascent!!!!
Di

Posted by: Diane on 11/16/2011 at 10:36 am

Good climbing, Big-D!

Posted by: TRACY OWENS on 11/15/2011 at 8:40 pm

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Vinson: Season Beginning Soon!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

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Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall and Billy Nugent leave the US for Punta Arenas, Chile, in a few days! Once in Punta Arenas, the team will meet for their orientation and final preparation before flying to the Union Glacier in Antarctica! If you would like to follow along as the RMI team pushes their way to the highest point in Antarctica, please sign up for alerts below.
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great success cheryl holman :):):) toy

Posted by: wayne on 11/15/2011 at 5:23 pm

Be safe!  Enjoy!!!
I will miss you MAW!!
Diane

Posted by: Diane Barnett on 11/14/2011 at 1:39 pm

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RMI Guide Linden Mallory Featured by Leave No Trace

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Categories: Guide News

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RMI Guides Linden Mallory and Alex Van Steen have been working with Leave No Trace for the past several years helping complete a new Mountaineering Curriculum for Leave No Trace. The curriculum was originally developed by Peter Whittaker, RMI, Leave No Trace, and several land managers and land users. It will soon be available to the broader mountaineering community through Leave No Trace. Linden was interviewed in Leave No Trace's latest Newsletter discussing the role of Leave No Trace ethics in the mountains and in his guiding career. Check out the story here!
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Mt. Rainier: Climber’s Story

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

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RMI Climber Chuck Knauff climbed Mt. Rainier on a 5 Day Summit Climb this August and with RMI Guides Leon Davis, Eric Frank, and Dave Walter. Chuck recently told the story of his climb in the newspaper the Sun Gazette. AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE City man climbs Mount Rainier Sun Gazette October 23, 2011 By Julie Reppert "It's one of those things that, it bit me and now I'm pretty well hooked on it," Charles "Chuck" Knauff said of his climb to the top of Mount Rainier in Ashford, Wash. Knauff, 48, a Williamsport resident and project manager for a construction management firm based out of Harrisburg, completed the climb alongside six others in August. He spent five days at Mount Rainier, training and climbing, with the ascent to the summit and back down to the base camp taking just under four hours. "When you're standing there looking at it (the mountain), it looks fake," Knauff said. "You never get tired of looking at it." Two years ago, Knauff came across a documentary on ESPN depicting the mountaineering experiences of NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell and other NFL dignitaries, who climbed Mount Rainier as a fundraiser to benefit charities. Their challenges sparked his interest in making the climb himself. Read More...
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Shishapangma: RMI Guide Team Returns to Kathmandu

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

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Dear friends, family and colleagues: we are happy to get back in touch with you. Before all, we would like to apologize for the lack of communication of the last 10 days, but unfortunately, we were the most frustrated with that issue. Our satellite phone decided not to cooperate with our solar panel, and recharging the battery was an impossible task. Being the last team this season on the mountain, we could not borrow any other means of communication and we understand the worries this might have caused. But this is what being in the Himalayas brings to all of us... That said, we are eager to announce that entire team is back safe in Kathmandu after having reached the SUMMIT ON THE CENTRAL SUMMIT OF SHISHAPANGMA at 8013metres!!!! On Oct.11th, Bridget, Jake, Geoff and Elias reached the central summit in the mid afternoon, on a warm and cloudless day, after having followed the NW ridge for several hours from C3 (Elias and Bridget) at 7450m and from C2.5 (Geoff and Jake) at 7100m. The next day, Oct 12th, Eric and Leon, who had made shelter in C3 the previous day, started strong towards the summit. Leon reached the summit hours later, having Eric turning around well above 7600m in a wise and mature decision that honors this young, strong and smart climber, since his cold toes were not warming up in those early hours and up there you are the mercy of the temperatures. Two days later, the entire team was reunited at Base Camp, from were we would proceed to do several back-carries to clear our gear and trash from anywhere below C1 at 6400m. After another day of rest and packing, we initiated our descent towards the trail head, also called Chinese Base Camp, were we arrived yesterday, the 16th. We were picked up by our truck (who learned about our arrival by a paper note sent down 2 days earlier with a yak shepherd) which would take us to the town of Nyalam, just a few Kilometers away from the Tibetan-Nepali border, to spend the night. This morning (Oct 17th) we made it into Nepal not without a couple small issues at the border and multiple traffic stops en-route to our hotel in Kathmandu, due to the heavy tourist season in the area. Is close to midnight here, so I will stop writing, but we will send you a good recap of the entire expedition soon. Again, thanks to all of you for your support, your interest and the good vibrations sent. Best regards. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Congrats Jake, Geoff, and the rest of the team! Hope you post some more photos…

Posted by: Quinn L. on 10/20/2011 at 3:15 pm

Congrats!!!  Jake, I just need to know if you skied down???
Vince Vilasi

Posted by: Vince on 10/19/2011 at 7:17 pm

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Shishapangma: Group Returns to ABC

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

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Hey All, This is a dispatch from the Shishapangma Team. We are all back to Advanced Basecamp and everyone is doing very well. Jake, Elias, Bridget and myself reached the summit on the 11th, Leon reached the summit on the 12th. We are all back at ABC packing up and heading to Kathmandu on Monday the 17th. We will update you again soon. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
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Congratulations to you,  Jake,  and to the entire team!

Posted by: Hal H on 10/17/2011 at 11:20 am

Great news…congratulations to the whole team.  When you get back on this side of the planet post some pics for us low landers…

Posted by: John on 10/17/2011 at 10:22 am

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Shishapangma: News Regarding the Team

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

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We wanted to give everyone a quick update from the Shishapangma crew. We have not received any new information directly from the team, but we did learn that the Liaison officer received a note from the team requesting their yaks to arrive at Advanced Basecamp on the 15th and vehicles to arrive at Basecamp the following day. They will spend the night of October 16th either at Nyalam or Zhangmu, depending on what time they get back to Basecamp. We will post again as soon as we hear any additional information.
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Glad to hear that your mission is accomplished and that you will soon be returned to civilization. Well done, Team:

“. . . One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.”

Posted by: NSB on 10/15/2011 at 8:53 am

Felicidades por la actividad. Ahora a recuperarse muy bien para continuar con el resto de actividades.
Saludos desde España.

Posted by: JM on 10/15/2011 at 4:26 am

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Mt. Rainier: July Climber Recounts His Experience

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Categories: Mount Rainier

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With the summer climbing around here over and the leaves starting to change colors in Ashford we are taking a look back at this season's climbs. Check out this newspaper article about climber David Cox's 4 Day climb of Mt. Rainier. David reached the summit on July 27th with RMI Guides Mike Walter, Andy Bond, and Cody Doolan. Congratulations David, nice climbing and thanks for sharing the article!
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Hi Mike, Looks like your team is enjoying a lot more snow than last years team. I hope that you don,t have any long stays anywhere on denali. Good-luck to all of you. Ken Young “Denali team 2011”

Posted by: Ken Young on 5/20/2012 at 1:38 pm

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Shishapangma: Team Ready for Summit Push

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

Elevation: 24,500'

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It has been a busy few days here on Shishapangma. Yesterday a number of teams reached the summit and we are very happy for them. Our team is back at Base camp after a solid rotation up high. Our team carried, put in and spent a few nights at Camp 2, roughly the same height as the summit of Aconcagua. On this last round were able to get in a pretty windy carry to Camp 3, somewhere around 24,500’ above the ocean. Now we're resting and recouping here at Advance Base Camp. If weather holds we will launch this weekend for shot at the top. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from Advance Base Camp on Shishapangma.

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Hey Jake, congrats to you and Elias on your summit of Shishapangma without o2 and sherpas - a bit late but I just read about it.
Thanks again for the great trip up Rainier this past July (ALA climb)!

Posted by: Lance on 12/7/2011 at 5:00 pm

Hey Jake, good to hear you’re all safely down. Climbing in the Himalaya must be incredible. As you told our group on Rainier last year:“The mountain will always be there”. Sounds like everyone used good judgement.
Learned a lot from you and Billy during Rainier expedition skills trip last September and trained differently for second attempt. Made it to the top this past August with Paul, Maile, and Cody as guides. Thanks for what you contributed to my mountaineering education.  Be well and I’ll hopefully be climbing with you in South America or Mexico next winter.
Best regards,
Tom Falvo

Posted by: Tom Falvo on 10/19/2011 at 5:40 pm

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Shishapangma: Team Establishes Camp 2

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

Elevation: 22,965'

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Hello, This is the Shishapanga team with a new update. Camp 2 (22,965') has been established and the team is starting today to do some rotations and the weather forecast for the next few days is good. We will try to push it a little further to Camp 3 (24,278') with some carries and get acclimatized. Everybody is doing pretty well and we are excited and in very good spirits. The team is working well together and despite the hardness of Himalayan climbing we are having a really good time. So that is it for now and we’ll be calling soon with a new update. Take care and hello to everyone. RMI Guide Elias De Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from Camp 2 on Shishapangma.

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Os seguimos desde esta web, mucho ánimo y cuidado con hacerse “pupita”.
Esperamos poder veros pronto sanos y salvos.
Un abrazo muy fuerte para Elías y Bridget desde España.

Posted by: Miguel Ángel y Silvia on 10/12/2011 at 3:17 pm

Hey there Elias, Bridgette and crew!  The Ice is forming slowly here in Summit County and the high peaks are blanketed in snow.  Carrie and I send our best to you all for a successful and fun summit bid.  We are so psyched for you all and this grand adventure.  Climb hard, climb safe and we can’t wait to hear stories around the fire back here in Colorado!

Posted by: Rob Griz on 10/10/2011 at 12:35 pm

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