Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches the Summit!

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Adam Knoff, reached the summit at 7:30 this morning. Eric reported windy but clear weather. After spending some time on the top, the team began their descent and are currently around 13,500 feet. Yesterday the team had fun practicing crevasse rescue. Check out their photos below. Congratulations to the seminar teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Joe! We are proud of you!

Posted by: Gwen and Mandy on 6/3/2016 at 10:45 am

Way to go Mike! Glad you and the group were able to make it! Have a safe trip back!

Posted by: Katie Uttech on 6/3/2016 at 10:04 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Summit!

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Hi, it's Brent Okita from the RMI Denali trip. I have good news to report. We are back in camp at 17K after a successful summit bid. We all did super well and conditions were feasible. We got a late start because we had some clouds and a little bit of snow last night. We managed to slip one in. It was a warm day and the wind was minimal, which was great. It followed us all the way to 17K from 14K, which was just beautiful. People are sacked out right now. It's about 1:30 a.m., and we just got the chores all done and excuse my gravely voice, it just gets that way sometimes. We're planning on heading down to 11,000 feet tomorrow. Get in a little bit of a nap and then changing onto a nighttime schedule and heading down to basecamp and hopefully fly off this mountain here soon. All right, I'll have more info when I get it. Bye-bye. RMI Guide Brent Okita

RMI Guide Brent Okita calls in after successful summit!

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Congratulations to Mike and team! Awesome accomplishment! Glad you’re down safely and partaking in well-earned libations. See you soon, doc.

Posted by: Frank Marini on 6/5/2016 at 5:35 pm

Go Dawn, Brent, and Christina!!!! So proud of you all, and the rest of your team, too! We have been reading each post, enjoying this journey from NYC. You must be exhilarated and exhausted. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Safe return home. Congratulations!!!
Xo Lindsay and Steve

Posted by: Lindsay on 6/4/2016 at 6:51 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rested and Ready to Cache

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 2, 2016 - 9:41 p.m. PDT Rest, relaxation, and ready! We have had a great first day at 14,200ft camp. We all enjoyed the great feeling of not having to be up early. The team rolled out of the sleeping bag only when the suns rays chased us to the cook house. A deluxe meal of breakfast burritos, coffee, and socializing. Full and happy most of us went back to our tent for relaxing. The afternoon was spent training for our travels up the headwall and on to the West Buttress proper. With a strong and healthy team, we are hoping to put a cache of food and fuel in above 16,000ft tomorrow, weather permitting. This will be one of the final stages of preparation before we try our summit push. Things are going well so far and we thank you all for your support, warm thought, and positive vibes. One day at a time! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow! First day at 14 and you already went up the fixed lines to get this photo from above camp! Go getters! ;)

You’re welcome to some warm air from Ashford—93 today and freezing levels are bumping up to 14k for a few days.

Schlax: Ask Tyler if he’ll let you climb Washburn’s Thumb. Word on the street is that it goes at something like v5.

Posted by: Eric Schafer on 6/3/2016 at 8:38 pm

Here are 3 quotes I found that I liked that relate to mountaineering. I’m hoping to give you some inspiration for the push ahead. Stay focused and safe.

Ongun sending you all my love and hugs :)

“Great things are done when men and mountains meet; ” William Blake

A few hours’ mountain climbing make of a rogue and a saint two fairly equal creatures. Tiredness is the shortest path to equality and fraternity — and sleep finally adds to them liberty.
Friedrich Nietzsche, Human, All Too Human

“The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.”
― John Muir

Posted by: Karina on 6/3/2016 at 12:22 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team and the Mighty Talkeetna Hang

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2016 - 8:31 p.m. PDT Twas a day to rest here in ol' Talkeetna. Our team practiced crevasse rescue in the hangar. Scaling ropes like we would to get ourselves out of a crevasse, should we fall into one on the Kahiltna. To cover our bases we then reviewed how to pull a teammate out of a hole using a jungle gym in the yard outside our piles of gear. Then we all solemnly swore not to fall in a crevasse, the most important part of the deal. Post training we settled in to wait for a weather window decent enough to fly the 50 miles to Kahiltna Basecamp. Unfortunately we were unable to fly today. The team has done well with the uncertainty and though we are raring to go, we know that getting to the mountain safely is a step we mustn't skip. Wish us luck for tomorrow and hopefully we will be checking in from the mountains! RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi sweetheart! I’m so glad you made it to the mountain! I am praying you summit, descend and get back home safely. Like Adryan, Jesse, Tara and Bud, we love you and hope you have a wonderful experience. We’ll watch for Jake’s updates every day!

Posted by: Mama on 6/4/2016 at 6:05 pm

From Adryan: I hope you have a good time climbing the mountain - I’m always thinking about you - I love u Mattie:)

Posted by: Adryan Miller on 6/4/2016 at 4:18 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Check In on Their Descent

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 2, 2016 - 3:45 p.m. PDT Pete Van Deventer called the office to check in this afternoon. The team is at the 14K Camp and plans to continue down to 11K or 7k today. It is currently snowing, and wind-free at 14,000 feet. They met up with Brent Okita's team and wished them luck as they prepare for their upcoming Denali summit bid. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to High Camp

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 1,2016 - 11:21 p.m. PDT Hi! We are checking in from our high camp at 17,200 ft. on Denali. We had a good move up here today and are hoping to make our summit attempt tomorrow. I'm going to keep it short because it's late and time to get some sleep so we can hopefully make it to the summit of Denali tomorrow. I will check in again tomorrow. RMI Guide Brent Okita and team

On The Map

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Best of luck to you all. Stay safe.
Randy

Posted by: Randy Salo on 6/3/2016 at 7:49 am

Go Denali Dawn and team. We are all proud of you. Push the summit, give her your best go, she is calling you !

Posted by: Tom S on 6/3/2016 at 2:53 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

June 1, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT Summit days don't get any better than what we had today. There wasn't a breath of wind, and the warm temperatures let us leave early and get out ahead of other teams. It was the warmest summit day any of the guides remember, and the team did spectacularly. Seven and a half hours of climbing had us standing on the summit taking photos, and then we boogied back to camp. It was well worth the wait and we certainly did our penance and deserved a day like today. With the summit achieved, everyone is more than ready to get back to town and home. We'll pack camp tomorrow and get down to warmer, thicker air, and with luck be at the airstrip first thing the day after tomorrow. But first we'll sleep tonight, and dream of the highest summit in North America. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Jess Matthews, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lisa - So proud of you! Simply incredible. What a stunning day on the summit, we can’t wait to see you back in NYC!!

Congratulations,
Your Robin Hood Team

Posted by: Megan on 6/4/2016 at 7:15 pm

Congratulations to all on the team, big accomplishment!

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/3/2016 at 5:55 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relocate to 14,200’

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 1, 2016 - 10:36 p.m. PDT Today was one of the more work intensive days of the trip thus far. Up at 6:00 a.m., the same time as yesterday's move, we were tasked with a little more effort to break down camp and hit the trail. The slight overnight cloud deck a few thousand feet above us had kept some heat locked in and today's wake up did not feel nearly as chilled as yesterday with the clear sky. One of the days highlights was seeing the shadow of Denali painted on the thin cloud deck above us, the cloud was thin enough to let a bit of light through but just thick enough to keep the heat in. So cool. The unique lighting didn't end though, as we made our way up into the Polo Fields we chased the shadow all the way to our second break. Snowflake flurries continued as wispy clouds moved over the high ridge and the morning sunlight barely cresting over Denali made walking today especially enjoyable. Before we knew it we were at 14 Camp, making even better time than yesterday. Quite impressive considering it was our second big climb at altitude in a row! The real work just begins though as we still need to claim our homestead. A nice parcel with beachfront views of Hunter and Foraker will do! Tents stacked tight: 3 in a row, our cook tent, and finally guide tent at the edge of the hill. Plenty of old lots were available as most groups moved up yesterday to high camp. We chose to stake out our own - away from the crowds and with our own custom landscaping! We are settled in here at 14,200', looking forward to tomorrow's rest day and we'll see what opportunities the weather brings us. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Blake Votilla and team

On The Map

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High places are only for those brave enough to follow their dreams! You guys will never be the same walking this close to the heavens. We hope the wind stands still and the snow is light on your summit day. Looking forward to a safe return and some well deserved beach time in the OBX! We can tell from the blog and pictures that achieving your goal is close. Be safe and stay focused.
Carter and Kay Adams

Posted by: Carter Adams on 6/2/2016 at 4:27 pm

haha very good question—has the chocolate supply run out?

Posted by: karina on 6/2/2016 at 1:30 pm

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Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

June 1, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 1, 2016 - 9:20 am PDT Time for this year's pilgrimage to the Great One! Our team is assembled and we are about to hit the orientation from the Park Service before diving into the hangar to rig our equipment for the upcoming adventure! RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Prayers continue to be with you on your adventure and we are excited to be a part of it even if it is through cheering and watching your progress through the safety of our computer screen…lol. Many hugs and cheers to you Jason!!!!

Posted by: The Broek Gang Sandon and Sharlet and Kids on 6/7/2016 at 4:29 pm

Just thinking of you Daddy. Hope all is well. Everybody asks about you. We continue to pray for a safe climb. Love you! Have fun! Mamma

Posted by: Isty and kids on 6/4/2016 at 9:18 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Rest and Introduce the Team

June 1, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 31, 2016 - 10:03 pm PT Finally, a day of rest. Smoked salmon, toasted bagels and cream cheese served at the civilized hour of 10:00 set the tone for the day. Our communal get together then lasted to noon. What we all talk of who knows, but obviously we enjoy each others company. Speaking of which, I thought I might share a small glimpse of who this team is that you're following. I'll start with the lady from NYC. A social live wire who keeps things fun in the Posh and can climb with the best. Of the three doctors in the group, the one from the east coast is not the talkative center of the group, but is so fun to get to know and importantly, never complains, even of our cooking. The other doc is our elder statesman, older than even me! (OK, by just a year) But with this wisdom comes a love and appreciation of everything and everyone around him. The third doc is a stud! But his strength is so overshadowed by his generosity and true commitment to the welfare of the group. We even have two paramedics on board. The first calls Boston home, where he only works four jobs to support his climbing habit. His good heartlessness is reflected in the smile he wears no matter how difficult the going is. The other medic defines strength. Even after breaking his leg in January, he gets the hard man award. Combined with just being a really nice guy, we're lucky to have him on the team. Another incredible member was an air force meteorologist who became a physical therapist. Her strength and will power is obvious any time you pick up her pack. Plus she can run a five minute mile. Amazing person! Another teammate was here two years ago where weather conspired to thwart his summit bid, but has come back determined and firing on all cylinders. Always good natured, especially when there's rice one the menu, he is a pleasure to climb with. Of the guides, our first year assistant is proving his mettal and performing really well in the harsh environment of the Alaska range. Interestingly, all the of us are ski patrollers in the winter. My first assistant is all one could ask for in a guide up here. Strong, fun, hard working and smart. And a bright spot in the Posh House. Then there's me, trying to manage as best as I can and get this old body up the hill one more time. So that's it, the team in a nutshell. I trust you'll recognize your friends, family, loved ones. It's a special group and I'm excited to be climbing with them. RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

That Air Force Girl is Tough!! I know you already know that. Keep climbing Strong Dawn!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2016 at 3:22 am

We are all watching your progress, great job, great team. FYI Dr P. It is going to be 110 to 113 here in the desert this weekend….

Posted by: Saguaro Surgical on 6/1/2016 at 9:16 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches the Summit!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Summit!

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rested and Ready to Cache

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team and the Mighty Talkeetna Hang

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Check In on Their Descent

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Move to High Camp

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relocate to 14,200’

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Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Rest and Introduce the Team

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