RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly On the Mountain

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 4, 2016 - 4:47 pm PT What a big 24 hours it has been! As yesterday dragged on in the hangar with an ominous dark cloud over the Range, the team seemed pretty resigned to spend another night in Talkeetna. Suddenly the feeling around the airstrip changed as rumors of a slight clearing at basecamp filtered to town. "15% chance, but never hurts to load up the plane," a pilot friend said. That 15% chance kept improving to the point where our air service, K2, felt confident enough to send a scouting plane toward Base Camp. We launched our two Otters on the heels of the scout and navigated storm cells and clouds into the mighty Alaska Range. It was completely amazing. Both planes landed and we hustled out to make room for teams waiting to get off the mountain. The weather had let us in, but the pilots didn't want to push their luck. It was some real impressive flying that put us finally on the mountain after so much preparation. Way to be K2! Having landed on the glacier, we finalized our rigging and set off to begin the climb. Our late in the day flight put us in an excellent position for lighting out. It was a beautiful evening with some swirling clouds and pleasant walking. Our journey took us up to the base of Ski Hill, where we built camp after a long day. It just began to snow as we put the finishing touches on camp and we slept the sleep of the just. The adventure continues and it feels great to be in the mountains! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Back at Kahiltna Basecamp

June 4, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 4, 2016 - 4:31 pm PT Our last evening at 11,200' was all too brief. Walking this morning after what we hoped was our last in an open air Posh, we descended into clouds that lasted the morning. It felt great letting the feet stride out. By 11:00am we were at Basecamp, in a complete whiteout! So much for flying out this morning. Thankfully, our job of carrying these huge packs and moving is finally over. With no immediate optimism for a break in the weather to fly out, we did what just felt right, and set up the Posh Tent. Snacks were shared, but hugely, Geoff had cached a case of Alaskan Amber to celebrate our safe return. What a treat! After word from Basecamp Lisa of clearing conditions down glacier, we've rallied our gear in place, all except for our Posh. We're back here now, everyone sacked out and recovering from a short night and a few jam packed days. Conversation floats in for those of us not snoring away or fatigue, as does the sounds of the famed guide Vern Tejas' ukulele. Things are looking better around here. There's still hope we might have a big steak and fresh veggies for dinner tonight. I'm betting we'll be out for a late dinner and you'll be hearing from your loved ones soon. Until then, I might join my teammates in some much needed rest. A tout a l'heure, RMI Guides Brent, Christina and the team

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: JJ Justman & Mike King Lead Their Teams to the Summit!

June 4, 2016

Posted by: JJ Justman, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by JJ Justman and Mike King, reported a nice day with light wind, clear skies, and warm weather from the crater this morning. Both teams had a leisurely break after topping out at Columbia Crest. They left the crater to begin their decent just before 7:30am.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thank you JotaJota for your great organization and energy. And stories (true or not).
Thank you Gloria for your friendliness and ability to calm nerves.
Thank you Casey for pulling me up the hill.

Posted by: Sandra McIntire on 6/5/2016 at 3:32 pm

Happy Birthday Ben. We wish you a great day on top of the world! Love, Mom & Dad

Posted by: Beate Pucci on 6/4/2016 at 5:36 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Gear Up and Prepare to Fly

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 3, 2016 - 10:54 pm PT The Upper West Rib team started the day like any reasonable person in Talkeetna would, lots of coffee, eggs and bacon at the Roadhouse. From there we headed down to the K2 Hangar and went through all our gear and got packed up for flying into the Alaska range tomorrow. In the afternoon we had our NPS orientation and put the final touches on gear packing before relaxing a little. It began raining here in town but even the inclement weather couldn't bring down the stoke in our group. Everyone is extremely excited to get into the Range. Keep your fingers crossed for good fly weather for us tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - The Kit Has Been Dropped

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 3, 2016 - 8:32 pm PT Today was another cold morning with a quick breakfast. We shouldered our loads for the carry to above the fixed lines at 16,200ft. The team climbed well and efficiently. The weather was white, like walking in a milk jug, and the wind light until the last few moments when we pulled up on the ridge of the West Buttress the brisk wind and gray sky had us in our biggest warmest layers. We quickly dug a cache and dropped back onto the fixed lines where the wind calmed and we made our way back to camp for a relaxing afternoon and a trip meal highlight of quesadillas with fresh veggies and all the fixings. Tonight the team will sleep well and we are planning a rest day tomorrow with a short acclimatization hike to the Edge of the World, which is on of the nicest vistas in all of the Alaska range. The final kit of summit gear and food is stashed up high, and we're ready to make the push once the weather allows. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

June the Fourth Be With You

Posted by: Han Duet on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm

Congrats guys on what sounds like a cold tough day! You’re almost there! I’m so inspired by all your hard work trekking this big mountain.

Ongun sending you all the warmth from NYC and all my hugs and kisses! I hope you’re doing well I can’t wait to see you!

I am keeping busy looking at buildings and neighborhoods around the city and think I may have found a great potential option for our next home! For now though I hope you are enjoying your mountain home. You’re living in a corner of this world very few have and will ever see! So exclusive and cool lol. I can’t wait to hear all about it:)

Keep it up team and stay warm and safe!
Karina

Posted by: karina on 6/4/2016 at 1:56 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team & Gear Arrive Talkeetna

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2016 - 1:27 pm PT The 2016 Upper West Rib team met today in Anchorage after months of preparation, training, and anticipation. With the team and all our gear in Alaska we took a shuttle up to Talkeetna, had a great group dinner at Twister Creek, went to bed. Tomorrow is our in town prep day and meeting with the NPS. Thanks everyone for following along as we begin our expedition. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This picture is priceless, Benjamina! Lol. Safe travels, homie!

Posted by: Dizzle on 6/5/2016 at 9:57 am

Looking good guys!!!! Safe trekking. Will be following you every inch of the way from the comfort of my recliner chair

Posted by: Sue Moccia on 6/3/2016 at 7:09 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches the Summit!

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Adam Knoff, reached the summit at 7:30 this morning. Eric reported windy but clear weather. After spending some time on the top, the team began their descent and are currently around 13,500 feet. Yesterday the team had fun practicing crevasse rescue. Check out their photos below. Congratulations to the seminar teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Joe! We are proud of you!

Posted by: Gwen and Mandy on 6/3/2016 at 10:45 am

Way to go Mike! Glad you and the group were able to make it! Have a safe trip back!

Posted by: Katie Uttech on 6/3/2016 at 10:04 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Summit!

June 3, 2016

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Hi, it's Brent Okita from the RMI Denali trip. I have good news to report. We are back in camp at 17K after a successful summit bid. We all did super well and conditions were feasible. We got a late start because we had some clouds and a little bit of snow last night. We managed to slip one in. It was a warm day and the wind was minimal, which was great. It followed us all the way to 17K from 14K, which was just beautiful. People are sacked out right now. It's about 1:30 a.m., and we just got the chores all done and excuse my gravely voice, it just gets that way sometimes. We're planning on heading down to 11,000 feet tomorrow. Get in a little bit of a nap and then changing onto a nighttime schedule and heading down to basecamp and hopefully fly off this mountain here soon. All right, I'll have more info when I get it. Bye-bye. RMI Guide Brent Okita

RMI Guide Brent Okita calls in after successful summit!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Mike and team! Awesome accomplishment! Glad you’re down safely and partaking in well-earned libations. See you soon, doc.

Posted by: Frank Marini on 6/5/2016 at 5:35 pm

Go Dawn, Brent, and Christina!!!! So proud of you all, and the rest of your team, too! We have been reading each post, enjoying this journey from NYC. You must be exhilarated and exhausted. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Safe return home. Congratulations!!!
Xo Lindsay and Steve

Posted by: Lindsay on 6/4/2016 at 6:51 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rested and Ready to Cache

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 2, 2016 - 9:41 p.m. PDT Rest, relaxation, and ready! We have had a great first day at 14,200ft camp. We all enjoyed the great feeling of not having to be up early. The team rolled out of the sleeping bag only when the suns rays chased us to the cook house. A deluxe meal of breakfast burritos, coffee, and socializing. Full and happy most of us went back to our tent for relaxing. The afternoon was spent training for our travels up the headwall and on to the West Buttress proper. With a strong and healthy team, we are hoping to put a cache of food and fuel in above 16,000ft tomorrow, weather permitting. This will be one of the final stages of preparation before we try our summit push. Things are going well so far and we thank you all for your support, warm thought, and positive vibes. One day at a time! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow! First day at 14 and you already went up the fixed lines to get this photo from above camp! Go getters! ;)

You’re welcome to some warm air from Ashford—93 today and freezing levels are bumping up to 14k for a few days.

Schlax: Ask Tyler if he’ll let you climb Washburn’s Thumb. Word on the street is that it goes at something like v5.

Posted by: Eric Schafer on 6/3/2016 at 8:38 pm

Here are 3 quotes I found that I liked that relate to mountaineering. I’m hoping to give you some inspiration for the push ahead. Stay focused and safe.

Ongun sending you all my love and hugs :)

“Great things are done when men and mountains meet; ” William Blake

A few hours’ mountain climbing make of a rogue and a saint two fairly equal creatures. Tiredness is the shortest path to equality and fraternity — and sleep finally adds to them liberty.
Friedrich Nietzsche, Human, All Too Human

“The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.”
― John Muir

Posted by: Karina on 6/3/2016 at 12:22 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team and the Mighty Talkeetna Hang

June 2, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2016 - 8:31 p.m. PDT Twas a day to rest here in ol' Talkeetna. Our team practiced crevasse rescue in the hangar. Scaling ropes like we would to get ourselves out of a crevasse, should we fall into one on the Kahiltna. To cover our bases we then reviewed how to pull a teammate out of a hole using a jungle gym in the yard outside our piles of gear. Then we all solemnly swore not to fall in a crevasse, the most important part of the deal. Post training we settled in to wait for a weather window decent enough to fly the 50 miles to Kahiltna Basecamp. Unfortunately we were unable to fly today. The team has done well with the uncertainty and though we are raring to go, we know that getting to the mountain safely is a step we mustn't skip. Wish us luck for tomorrow and hopefully we will be checking in from the mountains! RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi sweetheart! I’m so glad you made it to the mountain! I am praying you summit, descend and get back home safely. Like Adryan, Jesse, Tara and Bud, we love you and hope you have a wonderful experience. We’ll watch for Jake’s updates every day!

Posted by: Mama on 6/4/2016 at 6:05 pm

From Adryan: I hope you have a good time climbing the mountain - I’m always thinking about you - I love u Mattie:)

Posted by: Adryan Miller on 6/4/2016 at 4:18 pm

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly On the Mountain

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Back at Kahiltna Basecamp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: JJ Justman & Mike King Lead Their Teams to the Summit!

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Gear Up and Prepare to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - The Kit Has Been Dropped

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team & Gear Arrive Talkeetna

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches the Summit!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Summit!

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rested and Ready to Cache

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team and the Mighty Talkeetna Hang

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

RMI Expeditions Blog

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches