RMI Expeditions Blog

Wednesday, June 7, 2018 - 10:59 am PT Nothing is easy about Denali. After two hard days of climbing and finally reaching the summit yesterday, we are currently hunkered down in our tents, avoiding the wind and spindrift that the mountain is throwing at us this morning. It is currently too cold and windy to safely pack up and climb down the exposed West Buttress. So we're on standby, chilling out in our tents waiting for the wind to abate. Hopefully we'll be able to bump camp down to lower altitude and warmer temps soon. RMI Guide Mike Walter Tuesday, June 6, 2018 - 10:50 pm PT Despite a less than ideal weather forecast, we awoke to clear skies and no winds. We fired up the stoves and woke our team. Muscles were weary after climbing for seven hours yesterday, but we couldn't pass up this opportunity. The weather stayed good all day and the route was in great shape. It was a hard day of climbing but we got to stand on the top of North America! We were ten hours round trip (high camp-summit-high camp). And now that we've eaten dinner and crawled in our tents, the temperature has plummeted, winds have increased, and snow is falling. Timing couldn't have been better. We will start our descent tomorrow... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Hello there. It's Eric Frank calling in from Bolivia. It's about 1:30 in the afternoon (BOT Time) and I'm at 17,400ft here on Illimani. Unfortunately, we decided this will be our high point for the climb. It's a combination of recent storm snow, and the forecast, which has made us decide to head down hill. So at this point we're going to move back to our base camp and spend our last night in the mountains. Tomorrow we will pack up, head back to La Paz, and in two short days, be back at the airport. We look forward to seeing all of you soon. Bye. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 10:46 PM PT So there we were, standing in our cook tent on Mount Denali. This morning was a beautiful morning, and it really doesn't get much better here in Alaska, but tomorrow's forecast had been showing elevated winds for some time. With that stability of forecast, it didn't look like a summit day tomorrow, so we decided to drag our feet at 14,000' for one more day. It was a beautiful rest day, well enjoyed by the whole team. The cook tent was humming this evening with the energy of expectation of a move to 17,000 ft Camp tomorrow. We are all excited and ready, and can't wait to give high fives to RMI's Denali Team led by Mike Walter as we pass them on Denali's West Buttress. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

On The Map

RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed at 6:52 am PT as the Four Day Summit Climb teams were approaching the crater rim. Brent reported chilly temps and light winds. They will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 7:21 PM PT This is Mike checking in from Talkeetna, Alaska. The Team arrived with all bags in tow and in high spirits. We spent the day packing and sorting our gear and food that we’ll depend on for the next three weeks. The weather is beautiful here in town and with an estimated 100 climbers heading towards the summit of Denali today. We hope the pattern holds so we can fly in tomorrow morning. There are some itchy feet and anxious minds amongst our group, which is to be expected. They have been training and dreaming of this expedition for a long time now. There is nothing like getting into the Alaska Range on a ski plane and letting all of life’s little pressure points disappear. The trade off is that when we drop out of society, we loose the convenience of that part of our lives. We will be hauling 22 days of food, fuel and equipment (100+ pounds per person) up the Kahiltna Glacier causing very real pressure points. We will be checking in each day and keeping our fingers crossed for sunshine and light winds. Thanks for following along. RMI Guides Mike King, JT Schmitt and Ben Ammon

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT The team enjoyed an excellent rest at 14,000 ft. today. We started the day with breakfast burritos. These weren't just any breakfast burritos. These burritos were so expertly prepared that they earned the coveted Alden Mills "Best Breakfast of the Trip" endorsement. After breakfast, we lounged, drank second and third rounds of coffee, and planned out the rest of our day. The planning was not very hard, since we really didn't have much to do. We took a walk out to a feature appropriately name the Edge of the World, and gazed 6,000 ft down into the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. On the walk back to camp, the team practiced some rope skills that will greatly enhance our efficiency on summit day. After the hard work was done we ate as much cheese, sausage, and bread as we could in preparation for our summit bid. Now we just wait for a weather window to move to High Camp, and head for the top. The team sends their best to everyone following along back at home. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 4:28 pm PT Well our lucky streak with the weather continued today. The Team was up early packing our equipment and taking down tents for our move to 14,200ft camp. The group of gentleman we have on this trip seem to get stronger each day developing skills both physically and mentally. Though we are all a bit warn down from this week's efforts, we are happy at our newly-built camp in the basin. We have spectacular view from our tents, which are currently glacier-front property. We are sitting pretty and looking forward to a full rest day tomorrow along with hydration, acclimatization, and a few skills for higher on the mountain. The camp will also get a few upgrades I’m sure. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Summit! At 8:45 am RMI Guide Dave Hahn radioed to say, "We are walking into the Crater Rim." The mountain has a cloud cap with some high winds and also some sunny skies. The teams will spend some time on top before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

The winds up high were moving. Snow trails off the mountain into the air. We're snug and cozy at 14K with plenty of food and fuel, So we sit and watch the tails of a mare. This small verse sums up our day. We looked up, saw winds moving snow around up high, and decided to do the prudent thing and sit tight at 14K Camp. We're ready to crack when conditions line up, but until then, some igloo building, heads up, and sunbathing are plenty to keep us happy and occupied. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford and team

On The Map

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 10:00 PM PT The gang awoke to a clear, crisp morning on the day of our carry to 14, 000' Camp. The group was raring to go and many could hardly sit still. Whether it was excitement or to keep the cold at bay was difficult to tell. Today would be the first day of climbing, when the group would strap on crampons and walk with an ice ax in their hand. This would be made even more difficult by the ever thinning air as we gain more than 3,000' of elevation on our way to 14,000' Camp. However, this group of climbers, after tackling the approach into 11,000' with professional style, would not be phased by things as trivial as thin air, heavy packs, and the guides incessant reminders to rest step and pressure breath. Right out of camp the climbing hits you head on with a steep slope known as Motorcycle Hill. Lucky for us the snow had been packed down and our crampons with their many points allowed us to send motorcycle with ease. At the top of our first obstacle we were treated to views of the Peters Glacier as well as the Father and Sons wall, an impressive alpine face of granite and blue ice. Further in the distance the wilderness of the Alaskan tundra stretched far beyond the limitations of the human eye. The scale out here is truly impressive. Reinvigorated by the views, the climbers were ready to scamper up squirrel hill and charge across the polo fields straight to Windy Corner. Again luck was on our side as the often ferocious Windy Corner would not live up to its name on this day. With the bulk of the hard climbing behind us, only one hill remained between us and our cache site at 14,000'. In the style that us guides have come to expect from our climbers they crushed the last hill and strolled into 14,000' Camp with ample energy. Friends and other climbers from RMI groups ahead of us treated us with smiles and a much needed water refill as we dumped our gear in our cache and prepped for our return to our Camp at 11,000'. The day was only half over. With water and snacks in our bellies we turned our boots down hill hoping to make it back to the safety and comfort of our tents before the snow turned to mush and the sun baked our minds. The climbers of the Jones expedition once again did not disappoint as all members of our group made it safely back to camp in time for lunch and well earned nap.Tomorrow will be another big day if the weathers on our side? RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

On The Map